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We use copper washers. They are reusable. And cheaper. https://www.buyautosupply.com/products/bas03546-m20-copper-drain-plug-gasket.html As stated, you CANNOT reuse the factory crush washer. They are designed with a bubble that conforms only once and then must be thrown away. If you use them they will generally leak or if not they require much more torque than they should which can damage the pan. The copper washers will conform half a dozen times. After which you replace them. They can be annealed if you absolutely must by heating to cherry red and allowing to air cool. GD

the other half has an 06 LL Bean Outback with the H6 and oil leaks.. his is definitely coming from the oil cooler and apparently this is pretty common on these engines. I would suggest cleaning things up as much as possible, run it for a bit and try to determine exactly where the oil is coming from.

It can be done, but I would recommend cutting in the middle, turning the OD down to match some seamless heavy-wall tubing with some plug-welding holes pre-drilled in it. Press it into the sleeve with a .001" interference fit then weld up the ends and all the plugs. You should keep the splined ends wrapped in a wet rag to prevent them from losing their heat treat. GD

We have been working on this for a bit now, and have several units in the field along with a growing library of base maps for running the OBD-I harness EJ engines (turbo and non) on a plug-and-play LINK ECU. With minor changes to a few pins, and running a vacuum line to the ECU you can be up and running with no codes and modern full programmable stand-alone features in a matter of minutes. LINK developed this board for the V1-2 WRX/STI over in Europe, Australia, and Japan. It happens to share the same basic pinout as the USDM EJ22 and EJ22T cars (Legacy 90-94, and Legacy Sport 91-94). The LINK supports full motorsports features such as: G4+ PlugIn Key Features Up to 6D fuel and ignition mapping Precision closed loop cam control (four cam, independent control) Sequential fuel delivery Digital triggering, all OEM patterns OEM idle hardware supported 5D boost control with three switchable tables Motorsport features - antilag, launch, flat shift Continuous barometric correction (on board) CAN port QuickTune - automated fuel tuning Individual cylinder correction USB tuning cable included Stats recording into on-board memory Gear compensations for spark, boost and fuel Real time selectable dual fuel, ignition and boost maps Sync and crank sensors can be a combination of Hall effect, variable reluctance or optical Boost control referenced to gear, speed or throttle position Up to 32Mbit internal logging memory Staged injection Knock with "windowing" This is the ECU we use for this application: http://dealers.linkecu.com/WRX2Plus Our kits also include a 3-bar map sensor, and the expansion loom for adding inputs such as wideband O2 (highly recommended), fuel pressure, EGT, or any other input you would like to map to an ECU function, alarm output, etc. Included in our package is our dyno derived base map library for the EJ, as well as technical support, and 1 hour of remote tuning assistance to get you up and running and driveable to your local dyno shop or on the street tuning either professionally or personally. The tuning software is completely free and there are no licensing or other fees associated with the software. EVER! You can freely download the latest version from the LINK website anytime even if you don't own a LINK ECU. The software is very user friendly and has amazing documentation - right clicking on just about anything brings up a help window. Tired of those expensive MAF sensors? Throw it away forever. LINK can run speed density, or use any MAF from thousands of other newer vehicles - frequency MAF from an LS? No problem. Throttle body not large enough? Bad TPS? No problem - adapt a newer model. You can change any sensor to anything you like from any make and model supported in the software. Just pull from your choice of car in the junk yard and change a few ECU settings. NO LIMITATIONS. Tired of the limitations of the OBD-I factory ECU? The LINK ECU package with included MAP sensor, XS Loom, basemaps, and remote tuning assistance are $1499 Here's a Dyno sheet from our shop's 1991 Legacy Sport Sedan. This car is 100% stock with only 3" turbo-back exhaust. Factory rated at 165 crank HP on 8 psi. This is @ 16 psi with a LINK ECU, and redline bumped up to 7200: 176.11 AWHP, and 196.17 AWTQ. Corrected for drivetrain losses that's about 210 crank HP from the stock EJ22T with only exhaust mods. Please feel free to contact me either here, or through Facebook or email for any questions, etc. GD

Local auto parts stores (Auto Zone, Advance, NAPA, O'Reilly's, Pep Boys, etc) should stock it or be able to order it for you. It is more expensive (retail around $50 US for a 25 foot roll) you may be able to find it online or a coupon code for an online purchase at some retailers

Copper-Nickle Alloy is all I use anymore. It is on our 93 Ranger, 96 Voyager, 95 and 97 RHD Legacy's the one that goes over the fuel tank. It will not expand with normal brake pressures and if you take a piece of it and bend it like 90 degrees back and forth until it breaks (it takes a while) it will not kink shut. You can wrap it around a screwdriver handle to make a coil.

This will give you an idea of the route the voltage takes to get to the starter. Battery, Fusible Link, SBF 45 amp, connector, Ignition switch connector battery in (it will be good to this point) and starter out, connector in and out for the inhibitor switch, and finally the starter. The connector for the inhibitor switch is on top of the bell housing. In the diagram you'll see Pin 12 in and Pin 11 out to the starter. I removed the wires for standard tranny. Also note that "only" if it has security system it will have a relay.

I recall reading about some lines made from a cupro-nickel alloy?

Dorman sells a box of 20mm washers but, yeah, you could just buy a several next time you're at the dealer too. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001SNRGAA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What nvu said. Or buy several washerswhile at the dealership Cheers Bennie

Just because it's cutting power to the "acc" circuit doesn't tell you anything about the condition of the contacts in the "ST" circuit. I'd get the multimeter out and test for power coming out of it in that position. I wouldn't be surprised if it's nothing. Ignition and inhibitor switches have almost identical function, they can fail without warning.

Start circuit on that is not run through any relays other than the solenoid on the starter. Power before the ignition switch is shared, so the fact that it'll run, means that it's not a fuse or anything like that. It's either the ignition switch, inhibitor switch (on the side of the transmission, like you pictured), or a wiring break. Get out your multimeter and see where the power stops. The inhibitor switch has seperate contacts, so I've seen them fail in "Park", but still work in "Neutral". So if that doesn't work for you, I'd be inclined to ASSume ignition switch, but test it. Diagrams: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy_Outback/1995/1995 Legacy Wiring Diagrams.pdf Start circuit is on page 15. Super simple circuit.

Been reusing mine for 10 or so years now. It's a washer.

The problem can be as Mike104 said, or if you have anti-theft in could be a relay or something else. Had the same problem on 2 of our 95s and our 97 Legacy RHD with automatics. Most of the time they would start but some times the starter would not work. I added a Push Button to the starter circuit. Now my wife just turns the key on and hits the button if it don't start with the key. Very important on the mail route. Beside the steering wheel are 4 rectangles, two on the left and two on the right. One or two may be populated with push on - push off switches like for fog lights or something. Drop the steering wheel down with the release lever. Take out the 4 screws holding the bezel in front of the gauges and you will have access to the back side of it. Pop out the right rectangle and drill a hole (I think it is a 1/2 inch) in it to accommodate the push button switch. The one I used (20 or 30 AMP) is available at most auto parts stores. The button is silver. It fits tight. I only had to trim out a little plastic for it to fit. Mount it with the terminals facing to the right. You can tap into an empty spot on the fuse panel that is hot only with Ignition ON. Use a 1/4 inch male spade crimp connector. Hook that wire to one of the terminals on the switch. From the other terminal run a wire through a rubber plug in the firewall and over to the starter. At the starter solenoid connection I did this. Get a male spade connector and an insulated female spade connector and a 4 inch piece of wire. Crimp the short wire and the wire from the push button switch in the male connector. Crimp the insulated female connector on the other end of the short wire. Unplug the wire from the starter solenoid and plug it onto the male connector and then plug the female connector onto the starter solenoid. Now if the key does not start the engine, just hit the push button. Keep in mind that it will start no matter where the shifter is...…… Most people are in the habit of having it in park.

Well as it turns There was a crack in the universal joint end cap. installed a used driveshaft from a junked car and noise is gone. Thanks to everyone for providing input along the way.