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I will say that a proper explanation from Shawn would be a lot more helpful than deleting the previous thread. Why can't we all just work this out and help both parties to a mutually beneficial solution? I've got a lot of use from this forum and I thank Shawn for maintaining it for us. I would chip in for shipping to get this transmission to his customer if that's what needs to happen. I don't see this being that difficult to resolve and I don't see how ignoring it or deleting it will help either. GD

I cannot believe what this was! The screw that held/holds the ignition switch into the key lock assembly was gone. SO...when the key was turned to start, the switch moved in the casing just enough that no contact was made. One screw and fixed. Man...that was easy! But now I know what to do if problems occur in the future! Thanks Guys! Todd

But the Subaru pans have a drain plug. So I'm not seeing how that's really all that useful. And if you unhook the cooler supply the trans will pump it out for you if you are doing a full exchange. GD

This is not the first time the dude has taken 100-200 reminders to respond or square up. We have had bad experiences as well and I know of many others... And $500 is a huge number. I see them online for 200 all day.... I saw the first post and it had a lot of support. Then was deleted? Not Cool at all!

Back in town and tried a cold start after it sat for a few weeks. Started right up, and the noise is gone. Good call el_freddo! I'm very glad to find that it's not rod knock, but i still have some concerns that the noise happened. Any thoughts on next diagnostic steps or if i should be worried? I've been meaning to check the compression for a while, and it seems like that might be a good place to start.

definitely sounds like piston slap to me from they way you are describing it.. and yeah, it can be a bit unnerving if you aren't used to it - kinda freaked me out the first winter with my Forester. but that was 3 yrs ago now, and still going strong (255,300 something). The colder it is outside, the worse it sounds on a cold start (also kind of embarrassing when other people are around), but invariable pretty much gone after several minutes.

No. They were removed in about 2008 or 2009. They never existed on EJ22T's either. The whole point of them was to trap bits of sealant or casting flash, etc from manufacture and prevent crib deaths of a small percentage of turbos. After the initial break in of the engine they serve no purpose at all and are a huge detriment to longevity not to mention difficult to service. We remove 100% of these and never use banjos with filters on our high performance engine builds. Never have had a single failure. If you must have an oil filter for the turbo then you need to swap to braided -3AN lines and install an inline filter that's serviceable. We have done that but we have also found it's pretty much unnecessary. The EJ22T's are well known for being very long term reliable with respect to the turbos and they never came with filter nor do 10+ models. Subaru realized it was a terrible idea. GD

He never shipped it thru fastenal. He said fastenal never shipped and he picked it back up and I never heard from him again. And after posting this I've found out he's done multiple people this way. And if there wasnt a tracking number he should have said so. And been like it should take this long to get there if it doesnt let me know but instead he ignores messages. And I've got screenshots of all the messages and me messaging him multiple times and might get a response months later. Im a laid back guy and very patient and normally dont do this but I've waited 6 months so i have the right to be pissed. And it's not that hard. I've shipped whole 3 wheelers before. So I know what it takes to ship big items. If your saying he's such a good guy then why dont he tell me what's going on. Communication is all I'm asking for. Is something happened let me know. But ignoring me just makes you look like a liar.

I don't think Fasetenal (who is not shipping company, per se) gives tracking #'s Either way......Callling Shawn a thief in this situation is a stretch. We all respect him and his business. You aren't goin to convince us that he's a crook or out to screw you over and take yer damn $500 buck (a totally super duper price for a FT4wd D/R box with 23 spine stubs swapped in) He's not a liar or a thief. you sound like a petulant child whining that you didn't get yer christmas present yet. This is why I don't ship engines or transmissions. It's a difficult process, and as soon as something hit's a snag......you get dragged by the person who understandably is irritated at not getting their parts. Maybe you should find another RX fulltime trans for a super deal. Or maybe just drag yer knuckles back to yer IROC But stop calling Shawn a liar or a thief. He is neither.

Yes, on the inside. Check this out. This would be the easiest way to stop the key chime and still keep the seatbelt warning. https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/26033-door-chime/ If you want to stop both then cut the wire on pin 2 of connector i10.

Found it here...https://www.autopartsway.com/secure/ordercomplete.cfm

My suggestion is: don't replace either one. The plug wires are not a failure point unless run with bad plugs (excessive gap) or soaked in oil from plug well seals leaking. The coils almost never fail unless treated similarly or allowed to corrode from lack of dielectric grease. NGK for wires, OEM Subaru for coil pack. If you must. Don't fix it till it's broken - change the plugs, clean and lube the coil terminals. Done. GD

The problem can be as Mike104 said, or if you have anti-theft in could be a relay or something else. Had the same problem on 2 of our 95s and our 97 Legacy RHD with automatics. Most of the time they would start but some times the starter would not work. I added a Push Button to the starter circuit. Now my wife just turns the key on and hits the button if it don't start with the key. Very important on the mail route. Beside the steering wheel are 4 rectangles, two on the left and two on the right. One or two may be populated with push on - push off switches like for fog lights or something. Drop the steering wheel down with the release lever. Take out the 4 screws holding the bezel in front of the gauges and you will have access to the back side of it. Pop out the right rectangle and drill a hole (I think it is a 1/2 inch) in it to accommodate the push button switch. The one I used (20 or 30 AMP) is available at most auto parts stores. The button is silver. It fits tight. I only had to trim out a little plastic for it to fit. Mount it with the terminals facing to the right. You can tap into an empty spot on the fuse panel that is hot only with Ignition ON. Use a 1/4 inch male spade crimp connector. Hook that wire to one of the terminals on the switch. From the other terminal run a wire through a rubber plug in the firewall and over to the starter. At the starter solenoid connection I did this. Get a male spade connector and an insulated female spade connector and a 4 inch piece of wire. Crimp the short wire and the wire from the push button switch in the male connector. Crimp the insulated female connector on the other end of the short wire. Unplug the wire from the starter solenoid and plug it onto the male connector and then plug the female connector onto the starter solenoid. Now if the key does not start the engine, just hit the push button. Keep in mind that it will start no matter where the shifter is...…… Most people are in the habit of having it in park.