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Welp fellas, with the assistance of a buddy, we pulled out the old engine and dropped in the new one today. Only took 4 hours from pushing it into the shop to driving it out.

As I was beneath the car for the water pump and timing belt service, I thought it was also to put an end to the stereo heat shield rattle which drives us all mad. I ran the engine at optimum rattle speed (~2750rpm for me). To verify where the rattle was I pressed on the various heat shields with a hammer handle until I felt and saw the rattle effect through the hammer. These shields had about 3mm play in them. The hammer handle literally bounced off the vibrating shields. With the same hammer I jammed a 3/16” x 3” nails into the gaps of the offending shields. Happy now.

Once while at the dealer, I complained of rattling heat shields and before I could protest, watched as they drilled a sheet metal screw through the shield into the exhaust! I have since taken to using large stainless hose clamps that cross the junction from one section to the next.

The parts car that has the piece on it is an hour’s drive away at my parent’s farm. Earliest at this stage would be next weekend. If your mum gets suss - use some BS magic that a forum member is curious about the 85 model door setup with the mirror. Be sure to then take some exterior pics too Cheers Bennie

That forum does not apply to the XT6. The XT6, much like a Loyale, is an EA (ER actually) chassis vehicle and as such absolutely belongs in this forum and this forum only. READ the forum description. Which one says "XT6"? That is all. GD

Yes, and you would have had to add several gallons of fluid to the reservoir. Plugging the brake line out puts of the master cylinder and pushing the pedal will tell if it is capable of working. If it goes to the floor, then the seals on the pistons are shot. Auto Parts Stores have what they call a bleeder kit consisting of four plastic plugs. A lot of times they come with a new or reman master cylinder.

If no external leaks are noted and no drop in reservoir fluid level, Rampage's suggestion that internal master cylinder seals are failing, allowing fluid to pass by and not build pressure seems like a likely culprit.

Cheap knock sensors are a REALLY bad idea. Just because the sensor meets the ECU's expectations of circuit resistance says NOTHING about it's ability to accurately profile the noise from the engine and trigger the ECU's knock detection threshold correctly. The sensor is a piezoelectric microphone and buying the cheap ebay ones is the equivalent of buying dollar store earbuds and trying to listen to high definition audio. The accuracy of the sensor depends on MUCH more than the resistance of the circuit used by the ECU to determine if it's failed or not. They are also "tuned" to listen to specific kilohertz frequency ranges. Anything from about 2Khz to 17Khz can be found on different engines and the determining factor on knock sensor frequency is largely the bore and stroke of the engine. So for reasons of accurate knock detection it is a bad idea to give the ECU a different model of sensor other than what it was designed to listen to. GD

I will say that a proper explanation from Shawn would be a lot more helpful than deleting the previous thread. Why can't we all just work this out and help both parties to a mutually beneficial solution? I've got a lot of use from this forum and I thank Shawn for maintaining it for us. I would chip in for shipping to get this transmission to his customer if that's what needs to happen. I don't see this being that difficult to resolve and I don't see how ignoring it or deleting it will help either. GD

My first Subaru was an XT6. Regardless I always wanted another one. I’ve had recurring dreams about the freaking car for 20 years now. I’ve been busy with work and I’m gonna try to Putz with it this weekend.

Do a cold start and see if you can hear any knocking. I would say there isn’t any. What I think you might be hearing is actually pre-detonation. This can be due to lowered compression, poor timing, worn plugs, oil mist (from blow by pressurising the crank case), worn rings. If you do hear constant knocking at cold start up, even after oil pressure is built up, you’ve got rod knock. Unlikely in these engines unless constantly over-revved, and/or starved of oil. Cheers Bennie