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Cut 'em off. That's the only permanent fix. The mechanics at the dealership where I worked all had their own tricks. Hose clamps, washers, etc. etc. They all came back.

LINK or perhaps use copper scouring pad that won't rust away like steel wool?

I have went back already posted he did ship it but still needs to better his communication. Cause either way ignoring messages for months is not the way to do business. But I will change the title as soon as I figure out how

I think you should go back to all the places you posted this and actually post the words "I'm sorry Shawn," and change the title of the thread, because he clearly didn't take your money and run. As stated by @Checkerboard Comet, a reputation can be ruined in an instant. You need to do your part to help rebuild the damage to Shawn's reputation.

this was my reasoning fo saying it will be 3.9 Only 3.7 dual ranges in the USDM market were in RX cars, and on;y the early 85/86 models were Part time. Since this box has Part time transfer at the back (no side lever for diff lock) and it's 23 spline stubs........so it's got to be from an carbed 85-87 USDM GL Wagon/Sedan/3-door ***side note.....Part time single range boxes in 3.7 ratio, with 23 spline stubs, did come in 4wd, 4cyl XT's. Non-turbo. But no Dual ranges so this box is not one of those.

Yu Yup. That's what I'm saying. everything after 82 or 83 IIRC. They had the VSS for use in the optional dealer installed cruise control. ECS light was used in California models, 2wd models (with feedback carbs) and also on FI models (turbo) Unused for most 4wds, but it's still there in the dash.

Thanks for posting the fix. If your scanner could show live data you could have looked at the O2 sensors and known what to do. I use the custom menu on mine and set it to show engine temp, rpm and both short term and long term fuel trim.

@FerGloyale - are you saying the US delivered Brats have a check engine light AND a reed switching speed sensor built into the instrument cluster?? If true, you guys are lucky! We didn’t get any of those! Cheers Bennie

I've cut up pieces of metal coat hangers and bend them so they slide in there and stay tight.

Might be better off buying one that has not been crashed and needs an engine. It may be less work and costs effective.

You will leave the Brat gauge cluster. You need to fish the 2 pole connector (black) with Yellow/red and black wire in it from under the dash. Ground the black wire, and run the Yellow/red one to the VSS wire of the EJ ECU harness. If you want an ECS light (CEL) operational, you will also need to attach a wire the pin in the dash electrical socket for the ECS light. The bulb should already be there.

Dano6, Then you should have stated that in your first post, because without that info you made it appear as if you were purposely trying to defeat the safety features. Enough said, so let's move on. The dealerships for any car company will not install used parts on any car, because they are in business to make money, and they don't want to have any call back issues/lawsuits if the parts don't work, or there still is a problem afterwards that could come back to haunt them. And, yes, $3800 for a new module is insane. I'd be looking for an alternative too at that price. You need to find a good independent mechanic who is willing to tackle your problem and allow them to diagnose and install any used parts for a solution. Just be certain that the module you have is for the same year, model, and equipment level. I doubt very much as anyone here has the training and skills needed to give you the answers you need. You might try the "Ultimate Subaru Members Board" forum (USMB) and ask the same questions. There may be a subie tech there that can answer you more specifically. Good Luck!

While the dealer was pulling up car after failed diagnosis, the car threw misfire for cyl 2 and 4 codes. I never saw these codes. Dealer says replace coil pack, plugs and wires with OEM. ( All good brands, under 20k old, plugs were already OEM). Picked up car after they replaced parts.Dealer says issue is fixed for the most part, just hesitates a little while going down the road. Issue came back within 500ft out of the parking lot. (I knew this would happen). Dealer work order shows mileage in and mileage out at the same reading, so they didn't even test drive it after their $450 "fix" before telling me everythign was alright. Service advisor takes my car for a test drive after I came back, and it did to him what I had brought it in for, after assuring me it was better. On my receipt for the coil/plugs/wires Dealer states front 02 sensor reading wrong, causing bad fuel trim, and rear o2 reading 0v. Dealer states they will not check into this issue because of my UEL headers. I ask why they replaced the other stuff without testing it just because it wasn't OEM, when they had a test saying something else was wrong. Again, dealer states they will not check into this issue because of my UEL headers, won't even try to fix it unless I get OEM headers and axleback back on the car. After a long discussion with the service advisor and his manager I got a full refund. I then walked to parts counter and bought OEM upstream O2 sensor, replaced it on the side of the street a block down the road, and everything is fixed. Annoyingly the O2 sensor I took out was an identical bosch unit as what the counter guy gave me, but this one works for now at least.

The dealer didn't retrieve any codes? coupla things that can be bad without throwing codes; knock sensor and engine temp sensor. Knock sensor can kill power by pulling the advance. Some folks report cheap ebay sensors working well. temp sensor can cause hard starting if NOT reporting a cold engine when cold, or, flooding/'choking' if always reporting a cold engine even when warm. does the car behave better immediately after a battery disconnect ecu 'reset'? If not, I'd expect you're looking for something kinda physical; vacuum leak, low fuel pressure, sticking valve, maybe intermittent ground somewhere,.....?