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I know you said you tested it but was the starter oem or aftermarket rebuild? When it doesn't start try tapping the starter with a long piece of wood while turning the key. Check the alternator?

scan for codes. seems like a 'dark current' power drain to me. You could check the current draw, if high, start pulling fuses to try to pin-down the circuit responsible. does it have a replacementradio? check for stuck CD. Does it have an amplifier? make sure it turns off completely - double check any aftermarket electronics.

Glad to see that you changed the post. Thank you for your consideration. More importantly, I was really glad to see you note that Shawn is a good guy! Always good to see things come to an amicable resolution. Aside from our shared interest in these awesome and quirky little cars, the thing that has always made this forum stand out to me is the level of decorum. There is a distinct lack of D-bags on the USMB. Since my first Subie, I have owned Toyotas, Hondas, a Jeep and a Dodge. The other forums can be brutal! Ask one wrong question, and someone with a whole lot of "keyboard courage" is posting awful things about your Mom simply because you are a "noob." Somehow, we don't seem to get into the negativity, the politics, the "toxic masculinity" and all of the other crap that pops up on other car forums. I have found the USMB members to be genuinely good folks and I truly enjoy the camaraderie. So thank you for re-affirming all of that today IrocDude. The Subarus we like are growing scarce, and eventually, the knowledge of these cars will as well. We all make better friends than enemies and it's in our best interest to to find a way to keep on keeping on as a community.

Well done. Title is edited, good job. “t” word is still in the body and picture of first and following posts - maybe edit that out? There’s probably another word that’s less charged and more accurate. 6 months from payment to delivery, is fairly troubling on its own, though still circumstantial to a public audience.

I disagree with the OPs approach, assumptions and language - but I understand his perspective and expecting an apology seems over the top at this point. He doesn’t know what’s true or untrue but I think the title and language could be edited. ***To him it could appear that no resolution happened until this was escalated.*** Few of us would be impressed by someone taking something for 6 months and then only returning it once there was public pressure and they were “forced” to. I wouldn’t apologize to someone that needed “forced” to give my stuff back and couldn’t do it under their own accord for half a year. I’d say “thank you” and move on. Im not saying that’s what happened, but it could look like it to the OP. There’s no way to prove whats “true” or “untrue” with 100% one sided circumstantial evidence. I think we can help without trying to ascertain true or untrue. I think the OP should edit the language to reflect dissatisfaction over an anecdotal, complicated personal transaction and just state facts. The language used borders libel and slander for a complicated personal transaction with limited data. The OP could have chosen to arrange their own shipping or gotten the item themselves but chose to pay an individual and let them do all the work. There’s a “cost” to expecting people to do the bulk of heavy and difficult labor inexpensively. You found an inexpensive rare trans from a reputable person - do everything you can to work and get it. Fly out arrange shipping yourself...etc. (which I have done before). Too lazy or busy to do it? Then don’t be surprised when shipping cumbersome transmissions doesn’t go smoothly sometimes.

I didn't see anyone else mention this, but Shawn is not the creator of the forum; Billy Clements created it sometime before I joined in 1997 or so. I'm not saying this to defame Shawn at all, but rather to point out what a good guy he is for taking over USMB and acting as "curator" of this long-running wealth of Subaru knowledge and community. Had I been in the buyer's situation, I would also have been frustrated with the events that took place and the time frame, especially given the lack of communication (obviously the most frustrating part of the ordeal). I'm glad that some resolution has been reached, but Shawn has been accused of being a thief, something that has proven to be untrue. Those words remain in plain letters for all to read. A public apology is in order. If the buyer is still pissed about the way things transpired, that is certainly understandable, but the criticism should be based on what happened, or rather what did not (effective communications) rather than allowing an untrue accusation to stand.

Try the dimmer , turn it up an down a few times. this will hopefully clean the contacts and the lights may come on. This usually works for me. You may have to leave the switch in a slightly different position.

The front calipers must be able to slide - sticking calipers lead to big differences in outer vs inner wear.

Yes. Bleed as normal. The FSM details a process for bleeding for ABS systems but it’s not necessary. It can take forever to bleed a system that’s been open that far. I’ve gone through 2 or 3 32 ounce bottles on systems requiring complete flushing rather than one or two corners.

Just back off the adjusting screw so that the drum slides on. Rotate. If it rotates freely, tighten the adjusting screw until it starts to drag, then back off a little. A new hardware kit will make life easier, but not necessary.. A regular pair of pliers to hold the cup against the spring as you rotate for the clip will work. O.

Once you have a drum off, and before you touch anything, take a quick photo of the brake assembly. Do both left and right sides; they are slightly different. So if you have any doubt about how it all goes back together, you can refer to the photos.

Just an update for everyone, I replaced the plug wires and coil with NGK units, cleared the code and no check engine lite in over 200 miles of hard driving. The plug wires on the car were NAPA and the coil was a junk yard unit. Very easy job to do. Mark

i've got one out on a shelf. I'll take some measurements the "hermosa" style on that website looks like it might be a close fit.

Actually I messaged him and apologized to him and asked him about some of the sensors that were damaged in shipping and what they were so I could get knew one. And the reply I got after that was "want me to see if they pay a damage claim". No it's all good sorry for taking so long. Still no explanation. So if he's good then I'm good. I'm not gonna worry myself about It. I apologize to him and showed everyone he did come thru. So it is what it is now

I've got an 84,000 mile EA81T '84 hardtop. Needs some work, but she'll be on the road before too long.

Right on Shawn ! Hey man , life can be brutally busy for many of us. That’s not just some b/s excuse. Hang in there and have faith. You understandably thought you’d do some good by letting us all know , but a lot of us know the guy well enough to know that he simply is not a rip-off. Yes , I see there’s another guy or two who feel burned. But I’m confident there’s a good reason why things appear to have gone wrong.

Check your fuel pressure,coolant temp sensor,tps sensor and timing. My guess with an xt6? coolant temp sensor or pigtail connector for it are onnthe fritz

A friend at work who is big on old Datsuns found this and passed it along to me. It might not be ideal for those of us in the states, but at least they exist! https://www.facebook.com/1019828981401739/posts/subaru-brumby-brat-owners-will-be-pleased-to-know-that-we-have-brand-new-tailgat/2562631333788155/

Why claim insurance anyway? Get a new bar, replace, move on, insurance company doesn’t need to know... Cheers Bennie

all the northeast rust bucket people are drooling....

Body on that is way too good to scrap. Ig it only blew the head gasket, reseal it from them up. If it seized, or spun a bearing, get a used engine and reseal it pop it in. Or EJ swap it.