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pictures of the source of the leak are best. Can you post pics? Second hand info and descriptions of the oil leak path, rather than detailed focus on the source of the leak is often confusing. Need to verify the source. Look for the highest and most central indications of the leak. Where the oil falls down below isn’t nearly as helpful. The “overfill” is not the cause of the leak. People have freaked out about high oil level for decades and it never causes leaks. It’s even common to purposefully overfill without issues. If it was egregiously overfilled, maybe, but that doesn’t sound like the case here. online Subaru dealers have exploded view diagrams you cam compare to what you’re looking at as well to help identify leak sources. Or you can screen shot a diagram and circle where you think the leak is - but a picture is way better since oil leaks can Combe confusing if you haven’t diagnosed and repaired them before.

Test alt output. If it’s an aftermarket alternator they’re low grade or garbage. Starters and alternators are pointless waste of cash at the aftermarket Parts stores. subaru dealer has an $80 alt for that car.

I wouldn’t do it. You’ll need to “massage” the chassis rails to get it to fit. The dissy needs to have one of the moutning tans shaved off from memory. Someone will know. Keep the EA81 or go an EJ. Cheers Bennie

The unstable idle can be a sticky IAC (Idle Air Control). This is the ECU controlled valve that bypasses air past the throttle to control the idle speed. It is the cylinder in front of the throttle body. If you can get some carb cleaner in there, through the air inlet hose, it might help.

If the starter is just ticking, not turning the engine over it has nothing to do with the coil. Make sure you check the grounds! Load Pro is a great tool. Check it out on you tube. I had one fellow with a 96 legacy, would not charge. After several used Alt, I finally got him to bring it over. The main ground wire bolt going to the engine bracket was not tight and was burnt an pitted. Replace the cable and bracket and he Loved his Subaru again.

I'm guessing it is all wheel drive. Have you checked the oil in the front and rear differentials and the transmission? Get the wheels off the ground and run it in gear and locate the area of the noise. Front differential, transmission, rear differential, driveshaft u joints, support bearing in the middle of the driveshaft. Subaru calls the driveshaft a propeller shaft.

KYB for the strut bearing too?

KYB is the preferred brand for Subaru struts. Springs - unless there is an obvious problem the stock springs should be fine to re-use. there are aftermarket springs out there, but i have no experience with them myself. something to pay attention to are the top mounts - especially the fronts.. there is a bearing that allows for turning - carefully inspect from the top looking for grease oozing out, rust, or other signs of deterioration... I personally recommend ordering a pair of mounts for the front at least so if there is a problem you can swap them out easily while you have things apart and you only have to do it once. once apart, if the bearing is anything but smooth rotation, the mount should be replaced.. And welcome to the world of Subaru! I am on my 4th, a 2002 Forester with over 255k on the clock

Once you have a drum off, and before you touch anything, take a quick photo of the brake assembly. Do both left and right sides; they are slightly different. So if you have any doubt about how it all goes back together, you can refer to the photos.