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Woof... Vampire clamps and non-sealed connections. Reminds me of my cars in high school!

jeryst, Many of the early generations of OB's use a small light bulb inside the switch that can burn out over time. The last time I had an OBW of your vintage I was able to buy replacement bulbs in a two pack from Radio Shack for about $6. They are very tiny 12 volt buds with about 2.5 inch long bare silver coloured wires coming from them. Every lighted switch in the car including the dash and HVAC/Radio lights used them. You would need to take the switch apart (both of your hands, the switch and thin bladed tools need to be inside a large ziplock bag during disassembly, to keep springs and small parts getting lost) to get at the bulbs and simply cut the excess lead wires from the bulbs after you install them. In some cases the old bulbs had a thin rubber condom over them to cast a light blue glow. Just transfer the condom over to the new bulb. This all assumes that your circuitry isn't the issue though. Frequently the seat heater mat under the leather/cloth seat get stretched over time and break the thin wire elements. Replacement mats can be bought online through a Google search, and much cheaper than from Subaru, if they are even available anymore. Check your fuses, and take the switches apart and clean their internal contacts. They frequently carbon up and either refuse to work or do so intermittently. Do some research online, check YouTube for videos and dive in if you're a DIYer. Good Luck!

Does anyone have a car alarm on their vintage Subaru? If so, do you like it? Is it hard to install? Is there even such a thing?

Did you check the plug under the seat for corrosion? If the contacts are clean, with it unplugged you could hook up an ohm meter to the connector going into the seat and see if the reading changes while moving around on the seat. And you could check for voltage on the other half as you work the switches. It's the place to start.

20 minutes is a long time for heat. I can feel warm air about 2 miles down the road in our 95 Legacy. Thermostat is probably stuck open or the heater core may be partially plugged on the inside or on the outside with debris. For the A/C to take 20 minutes to work is unreal. It should a matter of seconds. Does the vehicle have a "cabin air filter"? I once had a problem with air flow in the 95. I had to remove the dash and then the a/c evaporator and heater core box. The fan blows air through the evaporator then the heater core then to the vents. I found the surface of the evaporator core was 3/4 covered with crud from leaves and dust. Some newer vehicles have a cabin air filter to keep that from happening.

Hopefully the replacement alt will work. I am lucky in that I live about ten miles from a shop that repairs alternators and starters and they know me (I do computers). I took an alt in one time needing brushes. I had it apart and he soldered the new brushes in for me (which I could have done) and gave me the new bearings and I put them in. It cost me about 12 bucks. Good luck.

And if the Airbag light is ON the airbags WILL NOT deploy in an accident

Sounds like normal operation to me.

i allways liked those early impreza wagons lifted. if not needed larger car i would go for impreza . they looks cool.

if the light is on, there is something in the system that is causing it. the light does not come on for no reason whatsoever. a bad sensor, bad wiring, damage to the control unit (moisture or something) - something caused the light to trip.

The only 1994 wiring diagram I could find is for an Impreza. It looks the same as our 95 Legacy. The plug on the alternator has 2 wires. The large one hooks to the wire on the alternator stud then goes to the fusible link then to the battery (hot all the time). The smaller wire goes to the batt light bulb. The other side of the bulb goes to fuse 15 to get battery voltage when the key is on. When the alternator is charging there is an output on the small wire of the plug to keep the light bulb from lighting. If that voltage is not there the light will turn on. Battery voltage on one side low voltage on the other side. I just checked our 95 Legacy. Engine at idle, the large wire is 14.2v and the small wire is 13v. I don't know if they use the same bulb, but I just measured the resistance of the batt bulb on our 95 Legacy. It is 11.5 ohms and draws .104 A (104 ma) at 13.8 v. I don't think it will make a difference but I guess you could try hooking up another bulb from the battery + to the small wire on the alt plug and see if the voltage changes. This diagram does not show the fuse between the ignition switch and the light.

I've got an 84,000 mile EA81T '84 hardtop. Needs some work, but she'll be on the road before too long.

you can see the old existing holes from where the original 3rd gen radiator mounts, but refitting it to mount on a first gen is no biggie, new holes up ontop and a simple bracket on the bottom since this radiator isn't as tall as the first gen to keep it from rattling around down there, and there you have it. i added a reservoir because why not, where i mounted mine is the perfect place for the water table and the reservoir always being at the full mark, i literally ripped off the mount from the body of a 3rd gen. you gotta relocate the horn inorder to mount the reservoir where i placed mine at, i split my horns, one on each shock tower. and yes, that's a first gen fan and a 3rd gen fan attached to the same 3rd gen radiator, because im cheap lol. this radiator has been working fine for me for the last 2 years, one thing i will say to take note is i tried installing a radiator from a 3rd gen that was full metal(older 3rd gens), and the inlet/outlet seemed to have been smaller diameter wise than the ones that are metal/plastic radiators(newer 3rd gens), hoses fit better now, don't know if it was just that specific radiator or not, both types of radiators worked just fine, but i didn't trust the full metal type for long term due to how much i had to tighten the hose clamp onto it, so i installed the newer metal/plastic type that had the bigger inlets. im not a fan of plastic but i had no choice there.

You would alter this diagrahm so that the currently black (ground) wires at the 85 would instead be the green/yellow of factory light connector. The 86 pins would get 12v+ from the 3 pin at the factory connector (from stock relay).....or you could hook them in with the fused 12v+ line you added to the battery. Tis diagrahm also doen't really match the wiring shown in the pic.......This diagrahm shows all grounds tied to one wire at the body.......the pictured kit has the Relay grounding through the original wiring.......and then each light seperate.....which would be REALLY not the correct setup for a 82 plus model with gorund switching.