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More than likely it is the caliper bracket mounting bolts not tight or the caliper guide pins loose or worn. Check it out soon. You don't want the caliper popping up and lock the wheel from turning. That may not happen, but you know about murphy's law. Our 95 acts the same way on bumps. It is the hole in the caliper for the guide pins is worn and lets the caliper bounce up and down only a little, but it is noisy.

Manual transmission is the best theft deterrent these days.

I have two or three of the earlier ELM327 units kicking around in drawers from about 10 years ago (back then they were $15 free shipping). Maybe things have improved but for the price.... I doubt it. They were so incredibly frustrating - very occasionally you would get one to work for a minute or two before it disconnected and then mysteriously wouldn't work again with that device but might work with other devices. They were garbage in my estimation. Maybe things have changed but I have no use for them anymore having spent the equivalent of a downpayment on a pretty nice house on my current diagnostic selection. The thing I hated about Apple - they constantly assume all their customers are idiots (it may be true). Why build a mouse with only ONE button?!? I have 5 fingers..... i swear their products are made for Barney the dinosaur. GD

If it's a Subaru radiator, it is a straight thread and metric. Not a pipe thread.

The RX front air dam and side skirts do fit the EA82/Loyale body. I have them on my 88 Wagon.

I just changed a Dayco belt with eight years but only 30,000 miles. Looked brand new, if a little polished. I swapped it for a ‘Unitta’ Subaru oem belt made in Japan. Why not spend the mere price of a tank of petrol on this part? Of course I swapped the 22 y.o. idlers too, they spun free and dry, with ateeny bit of lateral play; When you compare them to new ones, that is when you feel the difference.

That looks like more than normal. Replace if paying labor, consider replacing if not. I’d wonder what caused the wear, weak tensioner...? There’s hardly a reason to not replace it anyway. I mean I get it - it’s a $100 but drop in the bucket for the value you’re getting for another 100k. If you’re not paying labor and want to reuse it, inspect it after 30k-50k. Removing covers and belt alone and reinstalling can be done in under and hour. Might even be able to inspect without removing the belt? Tight area but maybe you could get a measurement to compare? I’ve done it in 45 minutes without hurrying. No big deal.

Among a host of other problems (turbos, ring lands, HVAC panels, etc), those early LGT's suffer from TCU, trans wiring harness, and trans valve body issues with 5EAT. My advice - sell it or trade it while the codes are off. GD

It was out of time, the knocking went away. Thank you again.