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Now for the not fun part. Working under the dash can be nasty. In the images I posted, you will see one end of the Lockup Solenoid coil is grounded and the other end goes out on a Lavender colored wire to Socket T4 Pin 13. Plug B11 plugs into T4 and on Pin 13 the wire color changes to Red-yellow stripe then goes through the firewall to Plug B54 Pin 16 that connects to the TCU. T4 and B11 are located on top of the bellhousing. It is a 20 pin connector. The Harness diagram shows the TCU is located around the steering columb. There are 2 plugs in it, B54 and B55. I have seen older units that had TCU right on the label. You will tap into the Red-yellow stripe wire under the dash or under the hood with one of the bulb wires and the other wire on the bulb will go to ground. The bulb will light when when the TCU turns on the Lockup Solenoid and will go out when it is released. If the bulb goes out when you brake but it is still in lockup then the problem is in the tranny. If the bulb stays on when you brake then It is the TCU or maybe a sensor input. I know that most of the valves in the tranny have springs to return the valve piston when the solenoid releases. If the spring is weak or broken or there is sludg build up the piston will not move properly. One of the images is the valve and spring. The Lockup Solenoid valve routes pressure between two ports going to the torque converter - Lock-up apply pressure and Lock-up release pressure port. So, if the problem ends up being in the tranny, it could be the solenoid, valve, valve spring, a leak in the release port or the torque converter it's self. We'll see what the light says. You can save or print any or all of this info. I cropped and resized the images to make the file size smaller.

If you pull the heads, be sure to run a true straight edge across them to check for warping...

Bad intake gaskets will not give bubbles in the radiator-no pressure.

Return the store bought garbage and replace the contacts and brushes in the original starter. Super easy. the store bought alternator has a good chance of stranding you at any time. I’ve seen “New” “lifetime” “Bosch” - all of the above fail in a matter of months. They’re easy to remove. Two 12mm bolts hold it to the transmission/engine. Electrical nut is also a 12mm....maybe a 10mm. That’s it. if you’re unfamiliar and hesitant then it may help with visibility and room to remove the intake hose to the throttle body. Just 10 mm fasteners for the clamps and hose clamps for all the PCV stuff. But if it’s cold and they’re ancient the PCV hoses can crack.

hard to say about ABS function, you could have a bad wheel sensor or other issue....But checking voltage should be easy and is a known problem area.

Pretty sure that’s an electric choke. If I’m not mistaken, you should have power on that wire going to the carburetor when you turn the key to the on position.

The 854 tempo springs have no issues holding the weight of the snow plow! Can't wait for more snow to try it out. Not that I really want any more snow.

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Get the factory hoses. Nothing aftermarket is worth having. They are about $20 retail from the dealer. GD

Coolant temp sensor is a suspect. Check the resistance on it. Best to get one from Subaru. And yeah WOT is clear-flood on most fuel injected engines so you do appear to have a flooding condition. GD