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Maybe, just maybe corrosion on a valve stem is not allowing one or more of the valves to close tight. Cranking the engine would have pushed the valves open. Closing them relies on the spring pressure. Or maybe a broken valve spring. A weak spring will close the valve (if it moves freely) when cranking the engine and there will be compression.

Not worth much in parts. Just donate it for the tax write off. GD

NO! This will just seal in the moisture and the PA salt will eat it up anyway. It will look nice and solid but it will be a hard shell over cancer. You should use an oil/wax based undercoating and reapply it yearly. Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector is a good choice. There are others. Search for "Hot oil undercoating". These will seep into all the crevices and coat everything. Line-X, Ziebart, etc will only sit on the surface. GD

We can. But most of those are getting too old and people don't want to spend the money. A new OEM PCV valve usually does enough for oil consumption that it's manageable. New rings are the best for ultimate longevity though. GD

I am back! Sorry for the long delay family health issue that worked out fine and then holidays etc., so now that I am done with all my excuses! In full disclosure the car I was working on (my 2ed Forester) was a new to me used Forester and thanks to all of you and after me dumbly spending $$$ on an alternator before joining this board and you all among other things to try telling me about the fuse to control the charging was nothing I had seen on a car before and was new to me so in going through the steps all of you had suggested when I got to the fuse, wala! The dang thing was missing! Put a fuse back in and brake light went off, trouble codes (all but rear O2 sensor) went away when the voltage stabilized at a perfect level. THANKS THANKS THANKS now on to a lift kit, fix an oil leak and setting it up to flat tow behind my motor home as intended; yes manual transmission.

absolutely, tires could be a source of issues and should be addressed asap tires should all be the same brand, size and wear - at the very least, they should all be within approx 1/4" circumference of each other.

Oh, you reminded me - before I put the timing belts on, I use a drill with a socket to spin the oil pump to prime it after a reseal.

We have a page on our website dealing with the headgasket replacement. I have the part numbers listed there: http://superiorsoobie.com/head-gasket-replacement/ GD

those fobs are for the newer subarus. i have one of the 95-99 fobs it looks nothing like the ones on that site.

I cut holes in the top of the transmission tunnel just like on the EJ car, but the driveshaft rubbed on them under hard acceleration (it was a one-piece shaft, so that could have been part of it). If I were to do it again, I would just have them run straight through the bulkhead under the rear seat, as there's a lot more room for them.

It’s way past it’s peak (the USMB) due to the face dook trend which has made good men into .... ok I’ll stop there. Many folks who I electronically rubbed elbows with HERE are now gone and have found FB a place they feel comfy. I think it blows. Not the time for debate and there’s good aspects of it as well as the B/S. Just too much B/S. So as far as membership goes I don’t know what we topped off at. Used to see statistics like that on here somewhere. Bottom of the page. But we’ve changed providers and whatnot. Maybe there’ll be a resurgence one day. Who knows. Features like adding pictures sure help. Took me TWENTY YEARS but I finally got out West and met some of the really great folks who have made this board a great place to hang out for over two decades now. The WCSS is a cool event which the USMB members had a lot to do with. Thats a little bit of yappin’ about the USMB. Maybe one one of those guys like Legacy777 will show up and give details.

She moved under her own power! Yes.. she moved.. Only to turn around in the garage, so I can start the front. No leaks in the rear struts or solenoids. 100% airtight. I imported a good front wing ( fender) and I have a brand new door, locally. All other panels are very good. The front suspension strip down starts tomorrow. And my grinder at the ready for the badly welded box section repairs. Any tips or advice guys? Please chime in. G.