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Hello all, I just picked up this 1978 BRAT that I plan to restore. Though she is mostly rust-free, there are some easy sports that need to be addressed. From what I gather, they are the usual rusty bits. Anyways, I look forward to sharing my process and will most likely have questions along the way. I have many years of mechanical experience and have worked on a few Subaruas as well as many other Japanese vehicles (I am a Mitsubishi Montero enthusiast as well). Thank you for letting me share my new ride. P.S. - the jump seats and a roll bar are under the SnugTop topper. -Austin

Well quick update I found a whole car same year/model had to drive 8 hours and dig it out of 4 feet of snow but the good old subie should be running today. I appreciate the replies and help!

I doubt that part is the problem. No spark would have me checking for a broken timing belt, a loose rotor, and insuring the coil bracket was tight against the car body as it acts as a ground for the suspect part. Would also replace the coil.

same picture can be seen here: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_25/cooling_system/water_pipe_1/

Change the PCV valve with a Subaru one to maybe help mitigate that oil loss. easy and cheap. another user with an H6 that had all 6 misfires, had three dirty injectors on one side. Cleaning the 3 on one side alleviated all 6 misfires. its loosing oil, usually past the rings, but this is fairly common without causing all the cylinders to misfire.

"Bruce"

This is How the Instrument Cluster ended up, after the Deep Cleansing and New LED Bulbs Retrofitted, just Before to put it Back in my BumbleBeast: Now to put everything Back together. To put Back the Four Vacuum Hoses for the A/C Control Buttons is Easy, because Subaru Marked each one with Numbers... #1, #2 and #4 ...No Number three! ... ... but the last one is unmarked, as the last Vacuum Plug, so No problem at all. The Problem is to Keep them in Place, because with Age, those becomes Loose and the Tiny metallic plate that goes in their back, attached to the side's screws, isn't enough to keep 'em Hooked. So, I Used four tiny Zip ties, one for each hose and cut their excessive longitude, with scissors: That shall be More than enough. Now Reassembly everything back together. Finally, this are the Results: Somehow I Believe that the Original Designers of this Instrument Cluster, desired that it looked with Great Contrast, white numbers over black background as it looks with daylight... but since the incandescent bulbs emits amber Light, they decided to paint the Numbers with a green tint in the Newer Models, that the newer clusters has. The White illumination gives to the car a Much Modern Feeling, and is not Blinding at all, but Camera Lens tend to exagerate the Glow... it does look as Sharp as a Modern car's LED instrument cluster. Final Notes: ► You can see that the only part that has Green Tint painted behind the numbers on the instrument Cluster, is the Kilometers per Hour numbers, under the Miles per Hour numbers. ► I managed to Fix the Oil Pressure Gauge, just by sliding it slowly with my Finger, 'till it reached the Real "Top" of the readings, then it sat on the right 0 Mark, not under it as it was. The Gauge reads low, but Low is Better than under-zero (Negative) Readings ► The Dimmer Control does work Fine with LED Bulbs. I Uploaded a Video and is in High Definition Let me Know what do you think about the LED instrument Cluster and this Writeup; you can post and comment in the Discussion thread exclusively for this Modification, Here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/69467-ea82-dashboard-backlights-upgrade-to-hid-white-led's/ If you find this writeup, Useful, please let me know by hitting the "Like" Button below. I only ask this as a Motivation to continue Sharing my work with you. Kind Regards.