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18. Gap check and install the plugs. To install the plugs I use a piece of rubber gas tube over a wide flathead screwdriver, and slip it over the neck of the plug. This way if you miss the thread the tube slips on the plug and does not force a crossed thread. Once snug you can then tighten up to spec with your favorite socket/box spanner. In you go.... Press on the boots, and then fit everything else you removed. Here is #4 plug, just to remind you of the urgency of this job: As I removed the oil filler neck from the LH cover to aid removal and refitting, I replaced the O ring there too. Remember to be clean, well-prepared, clean, methodical, clean, and do not rush. I hope this helps some of you, I felt it was time to give a little back! The low rev hesitation problem is completely sorted after this job, and the car runs and sounds better, including at idle. Thanks for looking Mitchy

There is no difference between the belts when using the old and new style tensioner. The ONLY belt differences is between the SOHC and the DOHC belts. You should be using the SOHC belt. As for the no start - did you disconnect or remove the cam or crank sensors? These are vital sensors for the ECU to time fuel and spark pulses with. Cheers Bennie

Yes. As usual not a lot of room on driver side, but doable. Had to remove and replace the valve covers a few times on my 05 Legacy while setting valve lash. O.

A canvas drop cloth with grommets? They come in many sizes. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=drop+cloth+grommets+-plastic&rh=n%3A13399811&ref=nb_sb_noss

My pleasure... I will be sure to post an update when I make some progress on the roll bar. Cheers! Thank you! It sure is a blast through the twisties and handles like a go kart... I would definitely recommend.

The 90s Legacy and Imprezas had a fill panel that was on the exterior side of the shock tower. (Non structural) It rusted out faster than anything else, letting water in and rotting the quarter panel. But still not sure how much a liner can protect the shock tower. It's just sad to see this damage on nearly every NORTHERN Suby, yet the southern ones are perfect. (Like mine)

Very cool that worked out. And now you (and we) know a little bit more about how insurance works. I'll tell the story but there is a specific point that might help some older subaru owners too. Someone ran into my 1988 XT6 last year. As you know, a more worthless car than a sweet hatch - particularly in the rust belt where 90's Subaru's are frowned upon - they get dated so much quicker because the cars disappear and perception goes with it (particularly oddball XT's). I had the fortune that they were at fault, but I was just wanting my car fixed, no attorney, no other claims. I told the adjuster I had driven these for the past 20 years, had this one shipped from California to have a rust free car, done all the major maintenance things to make it a reliable daily driver and work car, custom differential, MWE axles, lift, new clutch, snow tires, fluids, belts, etc. And that it was much more valuable to me than to anyone else - I'd rather keep it and repair it and getting another XT up to this level would be quite a bit of effort. The damage wasn't terrible and I told him I'd be fixing it and rather keep it without salvage and re-title, reinspection - which I've done before but didn't want to here, it wasn't really needed. He added a bunch of stuff and quickly got to the totaling mark. Then he started asking me questions and....i forget the terms he used...but he added on all additional financial considerations that didn't effect the value that's assessed to declare it totaled. Like a rental car (though I never got one) - and some kind of other terms that somehow involved the body/paint/valuation or something but didn't go into the value they use for totaling for some reason - I didn't quite understand it. I just remember him pointing out and marking some things and saying - he could do this and that and it won't affect that first repair estimate that was just below the total value. The point is - he had some flexibility to stop the estimate before totaling it and add some additional fat on top to help an oddball old car that doesn't have any value - except to me.

Truely - no question is "dumb' post a photo of what you have ATM - one in each front door ? , or do you have 1 in each door ( 4), or do you have a pair in the rear cargo space sides or even in the hatch itself? , you can even look at speakers being placed in the central console or just one under the dash if you just want to hear the newsreaders and don't care about "music" of course you could always go this route always best / easy to replace same size with same size. I can post up photos of various installations. also show us what stereo you have ATM, original ? or some aftermarket job ? because if you are going to put a new one in, its often best to go with a shallow mech-less ( no cd player) unit or do a custom console cheers.