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Plugs are cheap. Change it. Sorry but our gap is measured in mathematical units, not blade bits. lol. .044. Move the wire from three to one. If the code comes back on one, you know it's the wire. Very seldom a coil with only one cylinder.

Hey Everyone, I haven't posted on here for years and thought I would share my build progress and findings. The end goal of this build is to have a fun autocross machine and weekend canyon carver. To start off this car was given to me as a grad present from my grandmother 10 years ago and I daily drove it for many years before tinkering with it. The car is an '86 fwd coupe with a 5 speed. This is essentially what the car looked like when I received it at only 80,000 kms. Currently the car sits at 275,000 kms. For the past 4ish years I have been autocrossing the car on and off while making changes to improve the handling and grip. I feel this chassis does have potential and certainly has light weight(2100lbs currently) and a low center of gravity going for it. I have been asked why not jump to a newer platform such as a BRZ/FRS for autocross but the challenge of making this a competitive car seems to keep me hooked and will be far more satisfying in the end. Up until now I have made several undocumented changes to the car such as a Weber carb swap with a wideband o2 for tuning, 6 lug conversion, 15x8 -19 wheels with 225/45r15 BFG Rival S tires, Ground Control coilover sleeves with stock struts up front and KYB AGX NB Miata rears, 2002 WRX seats, slotted rotors with semi metallic pads, Momo Prototipo steering wheel, RX body kit and Datsun 240z fender flares. The car has been like this for the past couple of years but it is time to make some changes. Addco 7/8" rear sway bar added to reduce understeer and increase lift-off oversteer for rotation. Fabing up seat rails with original brackets to fit bucket seat. Omp First R bucket seat fitted to keep me in place. I have always struggled to find a decent suspension setup while maintaining stock hubs and I have finally come up with the answer. The BMW e30 chassis has the same diameter front strut tube at 45mm. This allows you to fit a BC Racing coilover weld-in kit designed for an e30 on the front along with GV Impreza coilovers for the rear. The folks over at BC Racing allowed me to place an order with the BMW fronts and the Subaru rears. If anyone else decides to go this route the part numbers are I-04-BR for the front and F-08-BR for the rear *You will have to use Impreza camber plates up front as the BMW bolt pattern is different up top and the stock shock mounts out back*. Since this car is no longer a daily driver I decided on 10k springs up front and 12k springs out back. All you have to do is chop off the factory strut, slide it into the coilover base and weld it in. I decided to chop an additional inch off the coilover side to get the desired ride height. Here is the finished product with GC Impreza camber plates up top and helper springs added to get the desired ride height. As you can see this setup allows you to gain much needed camber/castor adjustment as well as dampening/rebound adjustment. This is how the car currently sits with the new BC Racing suspension in. Next on the list is 10" wide slicks on a 13x10 6 lug wheel. I am currently having Diamond Racing wheels built to spec and will post an update when they arrive. Now that the suspension is in order and a racing slick setup is on the way chassis flex is going to have to be addressed. I picked up this roll bar kit locally off craigslist for an s10 pickup and it seems to be a pretty close fit. I have begun the planning process and will post more updates as the progress continues. Thanks for reading and feel free to ask any questions regarding the build. Cheers!

Hi, new guy from TN. After wanting a BRAT for 40 years, finally got one... Sitting under a tree, "Ran when I parked it there".... Ignition switch broken so raided my stash and rewired. Now will run on fuel supplied directly to the carb but the fuel pump itself is very noisy and not pumping fuel. But I have a BRAT! and all sorts of plans for it..... VANDAL

Are the backlights for the instrument cluster on? The Park Switch will turn on the parking lights, but not the instrument cluster lights. You said Tail Lights----. If it is just the rear, is the third brake light on? This would be the brake light switch stuck on which would also tell the cruise control that you are braking so it would not work.

Thanks guys. Spark plugs ordered. Wires next on list (will try ocei77 trick to test them, if needed). PS - how many blade bits is the gap supposed to be? Haha

Pull the wire off the coil and see if either connection looks burnt or corroded.

I went to look at a Brat the other night and spotted this in his garage, mostly original survivor!

We replaced the engine in B's Forester yesterday. His engine has been burning about a quart of oil per fifty miles, one cylinder has low compression, so he got one with just over 100k miles on it. We've also been planning on going through the dual range trans so we took both of them out. Weren't too surprised to see this, same problem we've had the last few times. Low range synchro is smashed to the gear. Fortunately not bad enough that it couldn't shift. Also look between the gear and the bearing and you can see a gap. The gear keeps pulling away from the bearing, we're guessing due to the helical cut of the gears. We noticed this the last time we had it apart. The last time I also noticed this snapring was popped out of the groove, at that time we just pressed it back flush and popped the snapring back in. This time I also noticed there is a counterbored washer under that snapring that hides another snapring that had also popped out of its groove. I don't know how stock this all is, you can also see a brass spacer between the bearing and shaft that is probably not stock. This 1.59:1 low is older and harder to get parts for than the more common dual ranges. We decided to replace the original snaprings (top) with these snaprings, I'd bought them to replace the snapring for the other side of the dual range gearing because that one was popping out of the groove too. Cut the grooves in the shaft deeper and wider, it was a little tough since it's hardened steel and the grooves are narrow but it should be serviceable. Bottom snapring hidden by washer, two heavy duty snaprings installed. Also it's been grinding going into first so I put in new synchro rings for first and second. The old ones still looked good, hopefully it will shift better for a while. He pulled the heads off the old engine and there's nothing obviously wrong. Bores look good, spins freely. We're guessing the rings on the one cylinder are stuck to the piston.

I run a 2002 H6 in My old coupe. So I cannot speak for running one in it's original body. However, for the engine itself, I arrived at it for many reasons, after many hours of research. 2.2l are awesome, and easy to maintain, but I personally have a lead foot. The early EZ has simpler exhaust, which fit my application better. EZ30 has more power and such right from the start, more desirable (to me) torque curve, which means less effort for longevity and reasonable power. I am just over 8000 miles in this car (I drive a LOT) 150,000 or so total. I have an overall average of 27.5MPG. About 30 on the highway, 25 zipping through mountains. I am rather hard on my engines. I do not have an in tank pump. I run inline that costs about 45 to replace, no issues to report. Serpentine belt does fail. I went cheap first. Do not cheap out. Something about the way they are they stretch, switched to a good one and haven't had another issue with it. I run a standard 2.5L Alternator, cheaper and easy to find. fits in stock location with only a plug adjustment, and the use of the alt. mount off of a 2.5L. easy mod, avoids issue I will take timing chain over belt most days. They take longer to stretch, and usually are just better. Like anything else, If maintained. Proper adjustment will make them run for much longer than belt. Ignoring the tensioner will cause expensive repairs. Most of the H6 engines I have seen with blown heads, come from cooling issues. Usually fault of owner\mech. Failure of fans, improper level or leaking coolant will kill them, just like the others. From what I understand, the H6 does not have the same cylinder cooling passages\issues that the other Subaru engines do, so if regular maintenance is done, they 'should' outlast them. Just my equally long winded statement of my personal experience running the 2002 H6 engine. As always, content not rated, your experience may differ.

Yes that is true. But you’ve taken what my message way out of context. Year and model doesn’t matter in terms of kit specifics or how to set up the timing. It’s either SOHC or DOHC. Procedure to correctly the fit timing gear is specific to DOHC and SOHC, but it is the same across all models with the specific cam setup it has. Probably clear as mud now, but anyway... Cheers Bennie

They can be notoriously difficult to bleed. Search for “burping” if you have more issues. Generally refilling nose up and topping off after a drive or two is good to go.

It does matter if it’s interference and the cams/crank are clocked in a position to damage valves.

This one? 807607052

Check subarupartsdeal.com, but my guess is not extremely likely. Parts are becoming very scarce for these vehicles, especially drivetrain components. If you are only using it for the lemons race, rev it up and just skip 2nd altogether. Lol.

Year and model doesn’t really matter. A timing belt is either SOHC or DOHC on a subaru. The process is the same for any SOHC. The arrow on the LHS bank indicates which cylinder is at TDC. When lining up the cam shaft it should be at about the 1:30 mark from memory. Cheers Bennie

Again, what year, and model???? There are excellent youtube videos on how to completely tear down and reassemble SOHC and DOHC Subaru engines. Click on either SOHC or DOHC links above and have at it. Here's another LINK to a great one for SOHC