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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/20/20 in all areas

  1. I have not rebuilt a Subaru engine yet, but all the V8s, inline 6s and 8s I just use the oil I am going to run in it. NOT Synthetic oil. In your case it would be 5W30. You could use 30W non-detergent oil the first time. That oil will drop contaminants and not carry them to the filter. I change the oil filter after a few hours of running. Then change the oil and filter after a few hundred miles. After that keep an eye on the dip stick. To seat the new rings, I run full throttle through the gears a few times without revving it too high, like 4k. It works best going uphill so the engine spends more time at full throttle. Ride the brake pedal a little if you have to keep the speed down. I've done it that way since I was 12 years old back in 59. Yes, I'm 72. I read it on a set of rings I got back then. It works.
    2 points
  2. Car all cleaned up and back in service. This little "modern life" episode cost me 5 hours of my time - 2 work time hours; probably 4 man hours police time and an extra $22 for cab fare. I'd really like to do a bait vehicle trap. I hate thieves.
    2 points
  3. Hi all, it's been a great ride. Over ten years collecting parts and keeping at least 2 of my 4 Loyales going strong. I have 4 cars total. 3 with clean registration. All have EFI, all have 5 speed trans. One has the low range trans. All have clean body, no rust. The running car is the one with back reg, was gonna swap that motor into the 88 with the low range trans. Lots of parts, headlights, taillights, a set of rebuilt heads, like 12 computers, another low range transmission and another standard trans. Lots of interior pieces and relays. A freshly welded together California compliant catalytic converter exhaust assembly. Probably like 30 wheels. I would love to continue, but my situation is changing and wanting to check in to see if anyone is interested in offering something for the collection.
    1 point
  4. ^+1 It's not the belt, if the timing is correct, something is disconnected. In addition to sensors, check the IAC hose, (the 1" dia. one) that goes to the throttle body. If that is not connected it won't start either. O.
    1 point
  5. no honing needed after the first 50mi change and all looks good, it's a turbo so give it mild boost to seat the rings. lots of engine braking in between. running conventional oil until you hit the 1000mi mark is fine. never heard of subaru rings needing a tool, i've always put them on by hand. do check the ring gaps on the block before putting them on the piston.
    1 point
  6. If the parking brake was not left on and it is indeed the front, then it is probably rust buildup or similar. Does it roll backwards? Make sure there is nothing in the way and apply gas until it breaks free. O.
    1 point
  7. Got some free time so here we go!
    1 point
  8. If I pour gas directly in the carb it will start and run fine so I'm assuming it's not a spark problem. As long as I keep feeding your gas it keeps running.
    1 point
  9. It would. It took quite a bit of time to do then, and I was single, and working part time, and "going" to school....well, enrolled anyway. Got a wife, 2 kids, career, old house, and a couple dozen other projects, now. I like to stay active and see what people are doing, and offer help when I can, but I can't see me sitting down and re-doing the manual.
    1 point
  10. 1750rpm is EXACTLY where both of our Foresters’ exhaust manifold/collector heat shields arrived at optimum harmonic frequency; -in other words ‘rattled their loudest’. Remove them, wedge them or somehow fix them and all should be good.
    1 point
  11. Our silver Forester did all manner of peculiar wobbles, shakes and vibrations until I replaced the transmission mount.
    1 point
  12. As Bennie said, check the rack bushes if you have not. There is not much else up front to fix... Also, are you 100% certain that it is at the front of the car? Perhaps the driveshaft is wobbling, or there is a loose trans/diff/engine mount. Good luck
    1 point
  13. You need to bang around on the heat shields as they don't have to move much. The reason I am suspect is the sort of harmonic vibration that would happen under certain rpm/load. My 05 Outback exhaust is a bunch of stainless pool hose clamps holding it quiet.
    1 point
  14. It ea81. Distributor is on th e front, left of center. I didn't realize the power steering pump was the same. Also, no timing belts or covers I can see in the pics.
    1 point
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