Leaderboard

Finally got around to this job on the weekend. Overall it was pretty easy thanks to the tips from you guys. Removal of the donor dash took about 2 hours. Then about an hour when I did it again on the Brat to remove it's dash since I had done it once before. Installation took about 3 hours, but I went slow and also spent alot of time cleaning and making a few things right. Overall the project was a big success. I didnt have a hard time with the 3 bolts under the windshield, I used a ratcheting box end that is hinged on the ratcheting end and it make quick work of those bolts.

Are the radiator fans running when the engine gets hot? Here is a test that will check the fans but not the temp sensor. Remove the panel under the steering column (two screws). Connect the two Green connectors and turn the IGN Key to ON. You will hear solenoids and relays clicking, then both radiator fans will turn on low speed, then high speed, then off and the cycle will repeat until you turn the key off. Unplug the connectors. The oil filter and water pump are on opposite sides of the engine. If the water pump gasket leaks it will drip below the pump and if the shaft seal leaks the coolant is routed to the rear of the pump away from the timing belt. Sounds like it is time for head gaskets. The fan connectors have a tab you must pry up to unplug them. You can remove the fans and each side of the front timing cover, but the rear part of the cover behind the cam sprocket makes it hard to see the head gasket. Also, you must remove the pully from the crankshaft in order to remove the center front timing cover. When replaced it MUST be torqued to specs. In all the years we've had Subaru EJ22 I've never seen an external coolant leak from a head gasket, but I have seen different hoses and water pump shaft seal leaks and cylinder compression into the cooling system from a blown head gasket.

I've had the dome light switch turned off for years, as they are parked in my garage, and I got used to leaving the door unlatched, or even the back open for loading / unloading. One of mine had a flaky dome light switch, so I always had it shut off. I just got used to that, not worrying about closing the door at home. Well, when I typically drove one or the other [I have 2] every other day, the 160mA isn't noticeable, unless you measure with a DVM. Anyway, with the current situation, I've been driving once a week, maybe twice. So I go out the other day, turn the key, and NOTHING happens, not even a click.

Never heard that term before. Always a grease nipple over here. We love nipples Cheers Bennie

When I first asked a Subaru specialist shop I was told step one was remove windscreen. What a crock.... 1/4" sockets, extensions and wobble uni joint make it so easy When you get those vent covers out ....I cut 25 mm holes directly over the three bolt locations, added rubber bung plugs for the next time Keep a few lines pages to write your own notes for reassembly - I did still got them on paper Unsure if your fan and hot cold controls are same as our Brumbies , you can leave it in place so as not to have to disconnect heater tap cable You juggle the panel up or down and across to be behind the dash so it just stays when pull dash out. Reverse juggle panel back in front of dash part

G’day Scoby4wd, As you’ve said, under the defrost vents are three bolts. Under the dashboard left and right are two bolts on the lower A pillar. Remove the centre console. Remove any panels from above foot area. On either side of the heater box is some moulded ducting. Remove this, it clips in top and bottom. Can be a tight fit in there. Again, either side of the heater box are the cables for vent and temps. There is also one for the outside air vent high up under the dashboard. Disconnect these. Disconnect the main wiring plugs near the fuse panel. You might need to drop the fuse panel to access them properly. There will be other fiddly wiring clips to undo here and there. Take note of these for reassembly. I believe there is one wiring plug that goes to a relay or some box on the firewall. Keep an eye out for this sucker. Remove the steering wheel and drop the steering column - or remove the whole steering column (leaving the steering wheel in place). Pull the speedo cable from the back of the instrument cluster. Hold the dashboard and jiggle it gentle to loosen it’s sitting position. Feel for any resistance as this could indicate a missed mounting bolt/nut. Carefully lift the dashboard avoiding the windscreen (can easily crack the windscreen). Again check for any resistance while removing, it’s usually easiest to go out the passenger door, but really it doesn’t matter and will be more about what has better shed access (if indoors). It’s easier to do if you’ve got the windscreen removed! Those bolts under the demister vents are vertical and are a PITA to get at with the windscreen in place. Still doable though. The replacement dashboard should drop straight in place of the old one. Install is the reverse of removal, or close enough to it. Pull the cracked one first! Learn, clean the firewall etc. Then pull the good dashboard out. Now is a good time to add AC if you don’t have it but have access to a full kit. I think that’s about it. It’s been a few months since I did this last so I may have missed some finer details. Cheers Bennie