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Get a new mechanic? If it's on, either codes are stored in which case, we need to know what they are to help, or the ECU is crapped out turning it on, or you have a wiring short keeping it on.

update. took it apart it looked fine so i marked the belt pulled it apart changed the tensioner and put it back on my marks and after doing this it was 1 tooth off on the passenger side cam. rechecked i put the belt on the same way it came off ... yes. the passenger side cam was 1 tooth off. pulled it back apart fixed the timing put it all back together and seems to be running fine now. drove ti for 10 miles and let it idle in the driveway for a bit drove it again seems the 420 code is not coming back now ither. from what ive been told it woulda threw the light on in 10 to 15 miles before

I do tend to cover every angle. lol I can say nothing I've ever fab'd has failed structurally.

so since quarantine I've been busy in the shop. picked up a Full Race twin scroll headers to match's my sedan set up Borge Warner EFR 7163 takes care of the turbo with internal gated & bov some 4 pot / 2 pot action to match the sedan set up, also got stainless steel pistons made up front and rear for thermal and rust prevention got a personal specific torque plate made for my EJ22T blocks, proper thickness of the head was used so it match torque strengthens torque plate results, yes it makes a difference for sure time to assemble the wagon engine, the the spare motor for the sedan or the wagon lol what its going to look like can't have a new motor with out a good transmission, so I took apart my spare STi 6mt to change some synchros so its smooth like butter.

Hi guys. I’m back. Sorry lve not been giving updates. But I’m having problems with this website.. And none of the admin answer my login problems.. and I’m still paying $5 per month.. Anyway.. My XT is coming along well. The front end is now all done. I had extensive rust on the rockers (sills) And the box section under the floor. Lots of upside welding and plate fabrication Now it’s rock solid. It’s all been sprayed, underneath, inner fenders and engine bay. Epoxy primer ( raptor Seal where appropriate to) basecoat and clearcote. Correct 572 metallic space blue. Part of the original 518 dual paint code. The engine as only 63k miles is going back in basically untouched. Apart from filters, belts etc. All the suspension is galvanised or plated. All bushes replaced.. NEW pair of air struts too!! So now I’m rebuilding the front end. I’m very happy with the work I’ve put in. Unfortunately I can’t upload any pics under this login, ( I’ll message admin again) Also, I’ve dumped the 3EAT auto ( I was never happy about 3 speed ) for a 5 speed push button 4wd Manual I’ve also got a proper new XT AC setup, which I’m installing too. And to top it all, I have a digital dash too. I’ll fit that another time. Hope you are all good. I’m part of the XT groups on Facebook. I know some of you guys are to, I find them very helpful and recommend them. G.

My 2000 has 330k on it. Head gaskets fail ~80-100k miles, but they virtually always is just an oil leak. Check the oil and don't park over nice concrete, and keep driving it. I bought our 03 with 110k and leaking gasket, drove it to over 150k before fixing it and selling it. It's annoying, but won't leave you stranded.

There ya go !!! Ed Rach , we miss you brother !

Gloyale helped me save my Loyale 12 years by showing how to change out main shaft front oil seal on FWD wagon 5spd trans. 150,000 miles later still running fine. Now I will take his advice on oil pan - no cork - just The Right Stuff. THANKS AGAIN.

The wiki is a good start. The complete engine code is on the strut tower plate, if you're looking at a whole car. About the only easy piece with EJ engine codes, is that if the 5th digit is a letter, it's a phase I engine, if it's a number, it's phase II.