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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/02/20 in all areas

  1. Not normal. Electronic ignition uses pulses from the distributer or SPFI Module to fire the coil. If the engine is not turning, no pulses, no current through the coil, no heat. There should be battery voltage on the + and - of the coil. The coil bracket should have a power transistor (ignitor) mounted on it? If so, it is probably shorted. You can unplug it and test it with an OHM Meter. Put the meter on the diode symbol if it has one, otherwise use the lowest OHM setting. The transistor has three terminals one is ground. Put the black probe on ground. You might see 75 on one pin, If you find a very low reading on the other terminal, it is toast. If you get no short on the transistor, the only other thing that could turn the transistor on would be a voltage leak that should not be there from the SPFI module. The diagram is for an 89. The transistor works like a switch. An input pulse turns it on and connects the coil negative to ground and when the pulse turns off, the coil will produce a spark.
    3 points
  2. 12.1 is very low, almost totally discharged. Links? If you mean the fusible links, get proper ones, that is a fire hazard.
    2 points
  3. Check the battery cable connections. Might just need cleaning or ??
    1 point
  4. Check the ground on the block? Also check the power at the switch while trying to start.
    1 point
  5. You should check the coil + and - to ground with the volt meter. If you have a test light, hook the clip to ground and hold the probe tip on the coil negative and crank the engine. Does the light flicker?
    1 point
  6. Just fyi it was the water pump. Ordered a new one and started removing the old one. 4 or of the 5 bolts twisted off, so I removed the radiator and started trying to get them out with easy outs...no dice. Right when I had made up my mind that I was going to have to drill them out completely and tap the block, by pops had the idea to basically destroy the wp housing and it worked! Took an air chisel and began to chip away at the metal around the mounting bolts. After we got them all broken pretty good we were able to pry the water pump away from the block and remove it. Then I just backed the bolts out with pliers and got new ones from automotive fasteners. New water pump went on easy, and after letting gasket seal set up for 24 hours she was good to go. cycled water perfectly and did not over heat.
    1 point
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