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I had a problem where my starter would just click sometimes and not start. Ended up installing a 12v relay to the starter signal wire then pulling power off the batter and sending that to the starter via the relay. Fixed my issue.

future reference, a flathead screwdriver in the seam of the cone washer usually pops it out without drama.

An emergency fix where a relay may have done the job

Thank you both! Based on what you’ve said it seems like my gauge is working as it should be. That brings peace of mind!

Idle oil pressure at normal operating temp is low. The built in gauge is not super accurate especially at low pressure. Under the no load conditions of idle, the oil pressure doesn't have to be high. Also, part of the reason to never lug these engines, they are made to spin fast. Cruising down the highway, it should be 40 -45 + / -. But that's on the built in gauge. It also has a fairly slow response time. the light sensor switch probably doesn't indicate until a number under 5PSI.

also if they're really bad, on the intake bolts - loosen them slowly. at first you may even need to tighten it a few degrees to get a range of motion to work it back and forth just a small amount. if they're tight at all, work it back and forth 20, 45, or 90 degrees or whatever feels allowable and stop and go work on something else (another intake bolt). the instant that resistance is felt, it starts generating heat. it's localized heat not in places of advantage. that's bad an expands and contributes to the issue. continue to work the bolt back and forth, and take many breaks along the way to allow it to cool down. over time you'll be able to expand how far you're working it back and forth and the threads eventually begin to act like taps, cutting their way through the garbage. back and forth multiple times and eventually it's range of motion expands. the corrosion ranges all the way down the shaft, through the thick intake manifold body, and into the head, and i haven't seen penetrating oil be able to get down far enough to help get started. if you can get the head to come up at all and create a gap for penetrant access then get some down there, it's better than nothing and will eventually speed up the above processes referenced.

I constantly battle water intrusion on my three EA82 3-doors. While they have several leak paths compared to your wagon, my first inclination would be to check your taillamp gaskets, those are pretty easy to inspect. If perished/flattened reconstruct them out of closed-cell foam. Make sure any drain holes aren't plugged in those cavities. Does your wagon have a sunroof? Check that the rear drain tubes aren't leaking or disconnected. If you're really unlucky you won't have found the leak yet and you'll need to get drastic. Best way to find leaks is with two people using high volume, low pressure water, like from a garden hose on full flow. Remove the interior plastic panels in the hatch area and sit yourself inside with the tailgate closed. Have your helper direct the water onto various areas like the taillamps, window gaskets, hatch seal, body panel seams. Inside the vehicle you'll want to be watching for any little drips or rivers of water getting into the interior.

I replaced mine with FMX style fuses, they fit right in the holder. The colors even matched the amp rating on the fusible links. I also carry a spare set in the car now. Way WAY easier than the older links. I had them go bad/come loose on both cars more than once.

The 2 indicators operate on totally different systems. The gauge and sender work together. The switch and light work together. If you want both they gave to be electrically seperate, not combined. As far EA82 powered cars go, they had one or the other, I have never seen one with both. They used the same wire in the engine harness, but different sender, and different end point in the dash.