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yeah, any reasonable repair that doesn't increase risk to other parts should be fine. Some folks run with naked belts but I probably wouldn't on any daily driver. If I had just a fun whip, I might not care. maybe JB weld a piece of a CD/DVD/Blueray disc over the hole?

Is that a pair ducks laughing at you in their pond??

I learned of Super Rupair from this forum. From this site, do a search on "Rupair" and you'll see what others think, as well. Our daughter lives near Boulder and on one of our trips there I checked out Super Rupair. The place was large and full of Subarus. It seems that they've outgrown the one location and there are now 2 of them. I believe the Yarmouth Ave. place is where I went. They have quite a supply of used parts, too. My daughter's car had a cracked taillight. Instead of paying for a new one, they sold her a used one they had on hand for less. Was told to ask for Trent. I've met him once when we had problems with a seat belt.

Nah, the constant tick of death and the lack of power lent me towards the EJ. Plus I was over oil leaks. I’ve had my own cam belt issues with the EJ: Totally self inflicted though: ^ EJ still running. It did well over 1000km before that cogged idler bearing let go on the way to work one morning. I was able to limp it home and replace the cam belt kit etc. I’m still running that engine. It’s copped a flogging in many situations since being in my L series. Any-who, back on the topic of EA82 awwsomeness! Cheers Bennie

Gear Selector shaft seal: 806718040 or 806718100 <- same number up to 2003 (and possibly longer). These two will probably be the hard ones to find - 4wd lever seals: Rear plate seal: 33194AA000 or 33194AA001 leading (front) side transfer case 4wd lever arm to low range selector arm: 33193AA000 Tailshaft output seal: 806735070 or 806735210 <- same number up to 2003 and possibly longer. I hope that helps. Cheers Bennie

I have had any one of the 3 idlers go bad and start making noise. Take the covers off. Use a piece of hose as a stethoscope.

It's really not that "extreme". Many GM products from the 80's had similar setups. For the average consumer, they don't need to know what the exact temp is - giving them more information just turns into a customer service nightmare. We see this with AccessPort's on turbo models. Give the STI owner that barely knows how to drive an STI properly a bunch of internal ECU information and watch them freak out because they see some number change and they googled it and the interwebs told them their engine was going to blow up. GD

I live in that general area.Clean rust free subi's live here. If it had a clean title you might get $800-1000 for it. A fifteen year old forester with a rebuilt title with a blown no core block, has a value of around $500 around here. Your money ahead to get a used engine from Spauldings or pull and save and pay someone to install it.

If it was near me I'd be there with cash.