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Hehehe... thanks Dean! I don’t see it like that, I’ve have my gearbox opened up and played with more than I’d like to admit. For those playing in the northern hemisphere, this info involving dual range EJ gearboxes is specific to the Australian market - we didn’t get cool models like the RXII coupe, but we did get the EJ dual range AWD box for many years across the EJ range (minus turbo models as they’re all single range). Now, pack a lunch - you were warned @ellie-ray - I too was started with help from Phinzina’s information. Those gearboxes do exist in Australia - but they’ll be tucked under a bench or in a forgotten L series/Vortex that someone doesn’t want to or doesn’t care to sell on to someone like yourself. And you need to be careful not to get one with a flogged out centre diff - they’re rarer than finding rocking horse shite AND hen’s teeth!! You have to find them in a complete gearbox. You don’t need to cut the best low range gears possible, but that would be fun to do for a lower low range. Just use the L series NA low range gear set that gives you 1.59:1 low range. The next issue is diff ratio as this is commonly over looked in the earlier Subaru’s due to lack of factory options and the complexity of this mod. The L series AWD locking centre diff box came in 3.9 and 3.7 diff ratios with dual range and single range, the dual range had the crappest low range of 1.19:1 (at least it was an option!), but you can still build a dual range locking box from a single range AWD locking unit with a phase 1 dual range EJ AWD box - and use it behind an EA or an EJ engine. How you go about this swings off what engine you’ll be running - the EA82 or an EJ engine. This will determine which gearbox front cases you’ll be running with. If going EA, you need to ensure you have the spring and dedent ball setup for the low range selector fork, this requires mods on the selector fork to mimic that of the EJ selector fork (at least I think you do as I’ve not done this setup before), and the EA cases will need to be modified for this as well. The low range swap is basically the same as the one swapping the L series 1.59:1 into the EJ case - again, how closely you follow this depends on what you build it into - the EA cases or the EJ cases (early EJ dual range cases uses same input bearing and housing as the EA82 dual range). The low range hub will need to be machined for the EJ gear set mounting regardless: https://ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=13511 The EJ phase 1 dual range gear sets are important only if you’re converting a single range AWD locking box to dual range in the EA front cases. You use the EJ dual range gear sets with the locking centre diff, matching housing and the matching ring and pinion gears in the dual range EA front cases. You’ll want the L series 1.59:1 low range too - NA PT4wd is where to find this. Also choose your diff stub spline count - 23 (EA82 carb) or 25 (EA82 MPFI, turbo and EJ AWD). The L series has front shafts for both output stub axles from the factory. If you’re going for an EJ engine, I’d recommend the above but with a phase 2 EJ AWD dual range - first gear is stronger, the cases are stronger and *generally* they’ll have less kms than the earlier phase 1 boxes. Look for one from a 2002 onwards as I’ve come across two ‘99/‘00 gearboxes with phase 2 beefier cases but still retaining the smaller first gear with the lower strength. Both of these phase 2 gearboxes had diff output stubs from factory - I’m yet to confirm if this is the indicator of the difference. Also use the EJ flywheel and clutch. The phase 2 boxes use a hydraulic clutch setup, swap the fork for a cable operated fork (you’ll need the clutch cable stay bracket too) from the phase 1 box, and use a solid flywheel from the same - it all bolts up and works easy. You just have to swap the pivot bolt for the clutch fork to the lower mounting position. With that said about the beefier first gear, I blew second gear in my original AWD locking box build (EA AWD gearsets) - before I got it someone mated a single range lower gear set with a dual range upper gear set for the low range. This is a no-no with mix and matching gear sets and things can eventually go bang as an end result. I didn’t overload the gear, it became difficult to select on my way out bush, I didn’t think anything of it and rev matching made it all work fine. Down shifting as I was slowing and going uphill saw it let go, no over revving or anything, an easy load and it unleashed 1000 leprechauns with hammers inside my gearbox! Diff ratios: only way to swap unless you have the matching set is a cut and shut job from a reputable company that is willing to do the job (or you’re a really good machinist and welder). The pinion shaft in the locking box is unique in that it’s the longest produced by subaru, and thus IS NOT interchangeable with other EJ AWD pinion shafts. There’s a spacer tube in the pinion shaft system that’s critical to get the pinion shaft length bang on the same as the original pinion shaft before mods. I spent 4 hours hand filing that hardened sucker down to allow proper preload on the lateral bearing(s), I cant remember if there was one or two of these bearings in there. If you want 4.111:1 or 4.44:1 you will need the cut and shut method, and if running the 1.59:1 low range, the ring gear on the diff needs to be shaved to clear the low range gears. It gets out of hand quickly! While you’ve got the whole thing open, drop a front LSD in there. I used an OBX helical unit from the states. If you go this way, use the rebuild kit before installing it for best performance and longevity - this is something I hope to do with my front LSD at some point as it’s not working as effectively as it did when new. The bolt heads on the LSD needed to be shaved to clear the low range too! All works well though. So here’s my setup: phase 2 EJ dual range front cases and matching gear sets from an SG forester, L series 1.59:1 low range with auxiliary oil feeders over the low range gears, OBX front LSD, 4.111:1 diff ratio using a custom pinion shaft with the L series AWD locking centre diff, running 27 inch diametre tyres. An EJ22 does all the work out front. I’d go 4.44:1 diff ratio (and the lowest 5th gear ratio) if I had my time again with the custom pinion shaft. If I break that centre diff, this gearbox build is essentially toast as replacement centre diffs are none existent. The whole point of this build for me was to have awesome daily driving manners and off-road ability. AWD in the L series is mint to say the least. Fuel usage does go up a little though, it’s now hard to pull under 10L/100km but that could be due to other mods too - lift, tyres, dual battery, fridge, recovery gear and roof racks, engine age and wear (I’ve put it through quite a bit). It all adds up! The other good thing about this mod is that your tail shaft, gear selector linkages and gearbox crossmember all remain factory in the L series. After reading that and you still have questions, fire away! Cheers Bennie PS: this is probably my longest post on this forum!

My 2002 Forester finally hit that 260K milestone yesterday on a short outing...

Could the issue be a replacement valve that is slightly different to the other remaining (possibly factory) units? Thus sitting lower or higher than the others? Cheers Bennie

LEDs for headlights can go jump. They’re far too blue. And before you get on the it’s a better light bandwagon, it’s a very unstable wave variety of light. This means glare to incoming vehicles and less light returned to the driver to see what’s ahead of them. HIDs fall into this same category. I don’t care about current usage, I just want good reliable lighting that’s inexpensive to replace globes in. Cheers Bennie

Nah, the constant tick of death and the lack of power lent me towards the EJ. Plus I was over oil leaks. I’ve had my own cam belt issues with the EJ: Totally self inflicted though: ^ EJ still running. It did well over 1000km before that cogged idler bearing let go on the way to work one morning. I was able to limp it home and replace the cam belt kit etc. I’m still running that engine. It’s copped a flogging in many situations since being in my L series. Any-who, back on the topic of EA82 awwsomeness! Cheers Bennie

Those are CANBUS serial communication faults. You should check the battery and terminals first. GD