Leaderboard

Avoid. Now the EJ20 turbo would be well worth it, but the chassis rails need to be widened, or apparently run without timing covers - and change the spark plugs before install! Or EJ22 - no chassis rail mods needed, peak power is about the same as the EA82t and is more reliable. @Step-a-toe - any rail mods needed for the EA82 in the brumby? In my book EA82 anything in the Brumby/brat’s engine bay is a fail. Keep the EA81 or go EJ. There’s no other reliable option! Cheers Bennie

If you like Ricky, use my colour code system for marking bits from each cylinder I use coloured cable ties One use red...remembered by 3 letters each word, one red Two blue, rhymes and blue has one more letter than red Three green, both got ee and green one more letter than blue Four yellow coz yellow one more letter again Cable ties great for quick labelling with dirty hands or gloves, degreaser won't disolve as can marker or coloured tape. Great to tie to rockers, around HVLA, marking posts on dizzy caps and both ends of ht leads or even just both ends of vac tubes to be disconnected for tear down I add a white tie for inlet coz white is clean like inlet Black for dirty exhaust bits So a rocker with a blue tie and white tie is #2 inlet

Rampage I will try those things. Was not aware that better to open throttle body during comp test. Others have said that here, but I forgot to do that. And will follow the method of standing the valves up as you mentioned. And will definitely compare the grind on the valve seats. I will spend a good amount of time on examining and I'll post some measurements and a few pics. I don't want to hurry that along at all. I have to go slowly and take notes and make a check list. And I'll keep track of which cyl each valve was in. I can also take a look at old engine valves for some casual comparison.

idosubaru I don't have any idea on how new rings would "break in ". Have heard that doing heavy acceleration several times will ensure good seating of the rings. And on cyl compression: For SPFI FWD what are the typical numbers? I am aware of the need to each cyl reading be close to the others.

When I do a compression test, I use a push button switch wired from the battery to the starter solenoid. No need to pull the fuel pump fuse or disable the ignition coil because the key is not used. Remove all spark plugs and block open the throttle. The engine cranks easier and faster and is easier on the battery. Also, (not in your case, but down the road) if there is a leak in the head gasket between two adjacent cylinders both of them will read low and leak down. Hook up a battery charger if the battery is questionable. Normally I do 3 pumps per cylinder for a reading. Sometimes I do it again with only 1 pump per cylinder, just to nit pick. If you do pull the head and remove the valves, stand the valves up and compare length, groves for the keepers and the grind. Also compare the grind on the valve seats.

Rebuilt title on something that old often does *not* impact the value at all. All that happens is out of 100 potential buyers of a 16 year old Subaru with a blown engine - you'll rule out 40 of them. Then there's 60 more that will buy it and don't care. It's not a big deal if it's known why they were wrecked, it's reasonably repaired, and been on the road years later with no issues from the wreck, and the car is old and not valued much to begin with. Also keep in mind it's a very abnormal market currently. That can swing both ways.

If you paid for a warranty, use it. Have the yard where you bought it get you another trans. It's not working. That means you get another one. That's what warranties are for. It's also why I pull the pan on engines and trans before accepting them from a yard.