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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/09/20 in all areas

  1. Best tip ever. Older cars like this go to auction for next to nothing too, so it's not hard to find one with all good mechanicals.
    1 point
  2. Junk yard hints. Look for cars that have been hit hard - in areas you don't care about. At least you know it was on the road. Look at the overall condition of the car, if it's in good condition you know the owner cared about it. Clean fluids are a +
    1 point
  3. reboot originals or buy used and reboot, or reman from Subaru if available. different aftermarket axles often...if not always...show different lengths for the same subaru. i'm not saying that means they're the right axle - just that it's common and, by itself, doesn't mean it's the wrong axle.
    1 point
  4. My XT turbo 87.5 valve springs are inner and outer
    1 point
  5. Not true anymore. That's old information. The new LED sealed beam replacements are DOT approved complete housings with integrated LED's that are designed specifically to have correct beam geometry. I have a set of the newest style in my Trans Am and they rock. Also really cheap now. About $65 for the set and they aren't glass so no more rock chip cracks or holes, and the elements last basically forever. GD
    1 point
  6. If you like Ricky, use my colour code system for marking bits from each cylinder I use coloured cable ties One use red...remembered by 3 letters each word, one red Two blue, rhymes and blue has one more letter than red Three green, both got ee and green one more letter than blue Four yellow coz yellow one more letter again Cable ties great for quick labelling with dirty hands or gloves, degreaser won't disolve as can marker or coloured tape. Great to tie to rockers, around HVLA, marking posts on dizzy caps and both ends of ht leads or even just both ends of vac tubes to be disconnected for tear down I add a white tie for inlet coz white is clean like inlet Black for dirty exhaust bits So a rocker with a blue tie and white tie is #2 inlet
    1 point
  7. A DOT approved, well designed and adjusted LED is fine. I have factory LED lamps (low's, fogs and the brake lamp) on my Nissan Titan Pro-4X and they are very good. I have the Hella's on the Brat and my goal is to add relays as soon as I receive my terminals. My Hella driving lights are on a relay and plenty bright, but the low and high beams at this point are mediocre. I expect an improvement after the relay upgrade. All remaining external lamps including the turn's on my Brat are Sylvania LED's.
    1 point
  8. Philips has come out with sealed LED beams for us 4-lampers. Hi Beam Low Beam
    1 point
  9. Haven't posted for a while but the car is pretty much ready. Build the scoop to fit my Weber 36DCD carburetor. Exhaust is finished and done. pic of my home made headers: Changed trans and diff oil 75w90 Rear diff looked quite good. Ive been battling with bleeding the brakes for a few weeks no, no success Bought master cylinder repair kit form rockauto but still nothing, the pedal wont build up pressure. Got the seatbelts in Car is pretty much done, it runs and sounds great, only if id get the brakes bled i would drive the sh#t out of it.
    1 point
  10. All I'll say is I made 10-20k Jeep's look retarded with my 81gl with welded rear and this
    1 point
  11. Allow me to introduce you to the "Subaru Virgin" switch. There is a rocker switch on the top of the steering column. It is labeled with a P and some dashes indicating lighting. This switch turns on the parking lights even if the ignition is off, headlights are off, etc. This is a code/regulation requirement in other countries. What usually happens, is that the unsuspecting owner will bump this switch while cleaning the dash. Don't feel bad, it's happened to many. Commuter
    1 point
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