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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/17/20 in all areas

  1. describe the tapping and details more for us to diagnose something like this over inter webs. 1. why was all this work done? 2. Did it tap before? 3. Sound is what - High pitched, low, rhythmic, comes and goes for how long? Does it sound like typical older Subaru HLA tick or something else? 4. is it emanating from right or left side of engine or center or front or under the car? 5. what do you mean by “new” oil pump? They’re not available new, so it’s either a different used one, or you went through some effort to find and use a new one which suggests issues being chased you didn’t mention. Did you install a new shaft seal and Mickey Mouse gasket with the pump? Likely possibilities: 1. The bell housing cover plate under the vehicle is loose and moving or vibrating 2. TOD - HLA tapping. 3. Exhaust rattle or leak - they can sound mechanical and rhythmic due to loading being as such
    2 points
  2. Dang, I have the book somewhere, I will look for it. It has all the part numbers for 1984
    1 point
  3. I can't help with genuine part numbers but I have bought the correct module for Hitachi module every time aftermarket. The same was in early fwd EA82 carb and seems like a few other makes and models...Honda Might not work in other listings but Bosch did BIC 290 Coil for these Hitachi Just a thought, if U go into Rockauto and find part, info often has genuine part number listed
    1 point
  4. You need a 5watt resistor for 40 ohms @ 12V, especially when you account for the ambient temperature. I never used a resistor. I found that Toyota solenoids from the same era are much more reliable - I am still running the same ones I got at a scrap yard in the late 80's.
    1 point
  5. Just wanted to leave an update, Step-a-toe you were on the money. Got to the float and the brass plunger had come loose somehow, causing it to restrict fuel from getting to the carb. Tightened that sucker up and she fired right up. Thanks for your help!
    1 point
  6. Timing is usually set with the RPM around 700. Like others have said, that is not an 86 distributor. 86 distributors may only last 50,000 miles. They don't make them anymore. With the timing tick indicator pointing at the center tick mark of the 3 tick mark grouping on the flywheel, the turbo disty rotor should point to about the 5 o'clock position, and be almost directly on top of the screw in the distributor, with the screws that hold the distributor to the engine in the center of their wear marks, if it was an 86 turbo XT. The firing order may be wrong. 1-3-2-4 Front right is #1, Rear right is #3, Front left is #2, Rear left is #4. 86 specs are 6 degrees at 700 rpm for MPFI non-turbo MT. For a turbo, it is 25 degrees BTDC at 700 rpm.
    0 points
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