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Here’s some more info. Start up at the cowl in front of the windshield. Remove that and look down and see the pine needles , leaves , dirt , all in a nice 40 year old salad. That’s where the pinholes start the rust - water into the front interior floor sometimes - and always rot down below at the lower portion of the firewall and also the wheel apron. You’ll likely also see the front wheels have kicked enough to cause holes in the apron but being where you are maybe none of this applies. Do inspect. “ is the windshield cracked? because you're not finding another one! and if you do, they go for $300+ just for the glrump roast, plus shipping, plus installation. “ I have windshields and probably a couple others at least also have them. Currently I’m asking around $200 mostly because of the labor and materials involved in shipping. The gasket is indeed available and you can actually install it yourself. Easy ! Just have to be sure all the metal around the window is rust free and ready to accept a fresh gasket. (Currently I have a Coupe windshield on eBay for $300 but that is super special and way more rare) Ok so yes they are super reliable just don’t forget to shift gears on the highway. That’s how I managed to kill a perfectly good same engine. I was in third and having a blast then €@%~¥!!!!! Someone calculated I was probably doing 7-8k revs ! Be smart , have your coffee before doing what I did. Change oil as you should , can adjust valves yourself , you’ll need valve rocker cover gaskets , and start looking for oil pumps or reseal kits. Subarasaurus there are no automatic 4WD wagons or anything 4WD back then. It’s a manual and your shifter will likely rattle. Look for the bushings. I am stepping aside from ownership for a while as I turn to my motorcycles before I get too old. But you’ll see my stuff on eBay and the face book groups etc. “cashingmystuffin” that’s me on eBay. Best of luck. You’ll be fine and you’re really going to love it. Enjoy !

look for rust where the front doors hinge from! don't want structural damage now. it's normal for some rust to be under the spare tire area, same goes for battery location, and rear mudflap location. is the windshield cracked? because you're not finding another one! and if you do, they go for $300+ just for the glass, plus shipping, plus installation. these engines are very bullet proof, just make sure the crank turns over to make sure it's not seized up and you should be fine. post pictures! i would love to see another survivor. the plastic in the cargo area is usually gone or falling apart, same goes for the dash, there's probably less than 10 that don't have cracks across the country lol. if it's a manual, look at the pedal box for any cracks or separation. not sure what else to really say without pictures, alot of these first gens leak water in, either through pin holes in the cowl that let water fall through into the passenger side floor, or in the top corners of the windshield seam.

Starting moving going straight, ok. Not all the time on. When you mention auto - do you mean this is an automatic transmission?

you could use the 4wd when starting out from a stop, however any turning on pavement is really hard on ALL of the components of the drive train from the transfer case out. Tires, CV joints and differentials, drive line. etc. the other issue when doing this is the tire size and wear need to be even as with AWD cars. try it wen starting out in a straight line and see how it goes.

Truly, Thanks a lot! I am placing my order Saludos

Are you sure you’ve got your Before and after TDC the right way around? The Hotwire AFM MPFI needs 20deg BTDC static (green test plugs connected under the dash), this could be different for the flapper and vac advanced MPFI engine management. You might also need to connect some test connectors for dizzy timing changes. A new catalytic converter would be a good investment for smog, as would a new O2 sensor too. O2 sensors go bad and don’t always throw a code or show a CEL. Cheers Bennie