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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/23/20 in all areas

  1. Replace that leaking VC and most of the leaking could easily disappear. That's easy and cheap. With that description, 99.5 times out of 100 this is a misdiagnosis. Most of this might be the valve cover - those gaskets get hard as a rock and leak like sieves. Clearly this vehicle is worth as much to you as a termite infestation in your home, there's hardly a reason to think about this much - go give it a try. You would be looking at additives through anecdotal rose covered glasses. Fluids/additives work rarely, and usually on parts that were problematic from the factory, rather than old, brittle/delapidated/warn seals that are beyond hope. Those valve cover gaskets will be so hard and brittle that nothing will fill those gaps unless it also solidifies the entire crankcase. I've pulled hundreds of valve cover gaskets, old ones are always brittle, hard, and have zero ability to seal.
    3 points
  2. no. unplug the engine connector and check resistance from the engine connector to the connector terminals of the CTS. probably need to replace the sensor or fix the wiring. corrosion can creep back up the wiring underneath the insulation unseen. peel back the insulation and see what the wiring looks like. repair if needed, cover back up when done.
    2 points
  3. A branded version of Barr's Stop Leak was authorized by SoA to help limp EJ25 engines to the end of their powertrain warranty periods before the HGs finally let go and would have to be repaired on Subaru's dime. Had there not been HG issues with the EJ25 in the first place, be absolutely certain that SoA would NEVER recommend servicing the engine oil, or coolant systems, with anything other than the recommended fluids. I base the above knowledge on my experience as a senior design engineer at a vehicle manufacturer.
    1 point
  4. Code 21 (on my '87) is for the coolant temperature sensor, passenger's side, behind the intake manifold. Either the sensor is going bad or the harness has corroded, probably some of both, based on my experience. You can buy replacement electrical connectors, it's the same style plug used for the fuel injectors on a MPFI EA82 engine.
    1 point
  5. I don't have the photos anymore, the hard drive was damaged years ago. @franbev this thread has nothing to do with the factory height adjustment.
    1 point
  6. They were thinking they needed to alert you that the oil level was 2 quarts low. Which they did. Mission accomplished. GD
    1 point
  7. no that's not normal. that valve needs to be freed up. either keep moving and lubricating it as much as possible insitu or if you're that commited to doing this cheap spray the crap out of it with a penetrant like Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster, Yield. ideally pull the head and clean/address the valve. worst case scenario swap a used head and done.
    1 point
  8. Thread dredge here.. any chance of getting pics reuploaded for the 1st post. Thanks
    1 point
  9. Interesting to note that the trany fix in a bottle for delayed engagement seems to work out nicely. Posted here for many years. Also SOA offers their fix in a bottle for external HG leaks. Not saying your statement is incorrect but there do seem some snake oils that actually have some merit.
    1 point
  10. Engine back in confirmed flywheel only fits only one way and is same as another original I have. While the engine was out i found all valves adjusted too tight. Most likely The reason it ran like spoob at TDC. Reinstalled engine set distributor by tdc sensor in distributor. Runs normal. Had a couple issues with exhaust studs stripping out among others. Bout to adjust the new Weber. Thanks for all the help fellas
    1 point
  11. I would seriously recommend against using a stop-leak fluid for your oil leak. Those additives tend to make a mess inside your engine and for the most part, they don't even work. As mentioned above, I would take a look and try to find the source of the leak and fix that. My guess is the oil separator plate on the back of the engine, valve cover gasket or possibly the head gasket itself.
    1 point
  12. On a Brat the ride height is adjustable front and rear. In the front, the lower spring perch has adjusters. In the rear, there is a 19mm bolt on the center of the torsion bar to raise and lower the rear end.
    0 points
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