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I've slept in my '00 and '04 a couple times. With the seats folded flat (rear seat bottom flipped forward, pretty big help for getting out of the rear side doors), cars101 says there's 5'8" of cargo length. When my wife and I slept back there on our UP trip, I could not stretch out (not a big deal, as I'm a side sleeper anyway). Without folding the seat completely flat, you probably get about , but the front is elevated. This makes getting out those side doors very difficult, and would not really be possible with another person in the car. But, with a modification to the rear gate to open it from the inside, that would be sweet. Here was the latter setup (with truckbedz air mattress): 2018-10-15_02-49-50 by Numbchux, on Flickr The CRV has a 10" shorter overall length (according to wikipedia)...no hopeful for interior space. Forester is similar. The BE/BH Outbacks come with 3 different AWD systems. The most common, MPT AWD on the 4EAT transmissions is very FWD biased, and can send power to the rear as needed (to a point). This is controlled by the TCU, and pretty good. It can also be easily modded to "lock" (still not 100%, but better) with a little wiring and a switch. The manual transmissions are simple, 50/50 mechanical differential with a viscous LSD. The LSD tends to get tired over the years, but there's a company in Europe that can rebuild them, and even make them stronger. The VDC trim cars have VTD AWD, which is a 50/50 mechanical AWD AND electronically controlled clutches. Downside is these cars come with stability control, which limits the fun a bit. But the ABS isn't ridiculously intrusive. The cold weather package (heated seats, mirrors, windshield. An option on the early ones and standard on the later ones) on the non-VDC models came with a rear viscous LSD as well. These LSDs aren't very strong, but every little bit helps. Unless you plan to use the torq masters locker, in which case you'll need an open diff. I have a '00 5MT with cold weather, and a '04 VDC. I've had them both off the beaten path, and they do fantastically. As always, though, a torque converter gives you so much more control at slow speed (we usually take the '04). I don't even want to talk about having a clutch offroad unless you have at LEAST 100:1 crawl ratio, preferrably more like 200:1 (best combination using Subaru parts is about 25:1). The CRVs have an AWD very similar to the Subaru MPT system (FWD biased), but just uses a viscous coupler to send power to the rear. The Honda Element rear diff is a direct swap, and has a stronger coupler.

They were thinking they needed to alert you that the oil level was 2 quarts low. Which they did. Mission accomplished. GD

My vote for a cheap, modern Subaru would be a 98-02 Forester, pick your flavor of transmission. I'm normally a MT kind of guy, but I'll happily take a 4EAT for off-roading and driving to the ski lodge.

You'll need to lengthen the arm on the EA81 clutch pedal to fully disengage the clutch. This doesn't get mentioned often, I hope I'm not an outlier in this, but after several years I began having trouble with shifting. I replaced the worn clevis pin on the clutch cable with no change. I ended up holding an EA81 and EA82 clutch pedal side-by-side and while they're very similar, the later pedal has a longer arm attached to the cable, hence, more "pull."

Thank You Bennie! Already bought it, Including Driveshaft, rear Diff (3.900), cv´s and, the whole rear susp and gear levers. I should have it by Thursday or Friday...the I will know Saludos, Rafa

The only place I've seen real damage on a hub is the surface that is pressed into the two inner races of the wheel bearing. When the wheel bearing goes bad the rollers tend to bite and cause the inner races to spin on the hub making two grooves in the hub. You won't see that unless you press it out. If you find a used steering knuckle ( FSM calls it a Housing) ask them to leave the wheel bearing, hub and the ball joint in it because the bearing is what you need. If you find one and replace it, Mark the top bolt (adjustment bolt) where it mounts to the strut. I use a hammer and a small chisel to make a mark on the flange of the bolt head and the strut underneath it. Or, use a center punch. When putting it together line up the marks. The lower bolt is a regular bolt. It may or may not need a wheel alignment afterwards. If you can, get Subaru wheel bearing and seals and hub (I use the Dorman brand hub) to repair the old knuckle so it is ready when the used one fails. I tried 2 different brands of aftermarket wheel bearings with new hubs on the right front of our 95 RHD Legacy Wagon and they lasted 3 to 14 days. I put in 3 of the one brand, then I got a knuckle from a yard and that lasted over a year. The Subaru bearings (both sides) have been in for close to 10 years now. I needed them for our 97 RHD Legacy Wagon. The dealer did not have them on hand and said to go to napa. They have been in for 2 and a half years now and seem fine. Both cars are rural mail cars. The 95 has 473 k miles on it and the left rear wheel bearing is still the original.

Hi guys, Thank you all for your input. Sorry but some things have come up and I haven't had time to work on the Subie lately. I'm hoping to return to it this weekend, and I'll be sure to report back! Tim

Replace that leaking VC and most of the leaking could easily disappear. That's easy and cheap. With that description, 99.5 times out of 100 this is a misdiagnosis. Most of this might be the valve cover - those gaskets get hard as a rock and leak like sieves. Clearly this vehicle is worth as much to you as a termite infestation in your home, there's hardly a reason to think about this much - go give it a try. You would be looking at additives through anecdotal rose covered glasses. Fluids/additives work rarely, and usually on parts that were problematic from the factory, rather than old, brittle/delapidated/warn seals that are beyond hope. Those valve cover gaskets will be so hard and brittle that nothing will fill those gaps unless it also solidifies the entire crankcase. I've pulled hundreds of valve cover gaskets, old ones are always brittle, hard, and have zero ability to seal.

no. unplug the engine connector and check resistance from the engine connector to the connector terminals of the CTS. probably need to replace the sensor or fix the wiring. corrosion can creep back up the wiring underneath the insulation unseen. peel back the insulation and see what the wiring looks like. repair if needed, cover back up when done.

They are supposed to deflect debris from the CV boots in the rear. Branches, ect. Some of us have added larger rubber flaps to offer greater protection. GD

thought i'd add that after loosening the three arm bolts on the rear, you'll need to do a wheel alignment....

NIIIIIICCCEEE!!!! I do believe that's the 1st LOWERED EA81 I've seen.