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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/25/20 in all areas

  1. Yes. First thing I did was remove the oil pump parts, spray them with PB blaster, and put them into a heavy plastic bag. And, a good tip there, will now save all cog gears from cam and crank. I run with no front TB covers, so any smooth turning TB adjusters and idlers I'll also put aside.
    2 points
  2. They were thinking they needed to alert you that the oil level was 2 quarts low. Which they did. Mission accomplished. GD
    2 points
  3. I got a blue one in Boise. cargo cover that is!!!
    1 point
  4. In regards to sleeping length, a false floor to raise you above the folded forward seat base will give you more horizontal space but at the expense of vertical space. This can also provide some neat storage under the bed in the cargo and rear seat spaces. If you’re really handy, you could make a tent setup off the rear tailgate when it’s open - google Ute swag for ideas on that one Cheers Bennie
    1 point
  5. No for Oz. I believe they started in ‘95 and Gen1 ended in ‘94. I think they skipped on a crossover year for once but I’m not 100% sure on that! Cheers Bennie
    1 point
  6. Generation change came between the Gen1 and 2 Liberty/Legacy. There will no doubt be differences in wiring and ECU between the two, but these can still run either engine configuration. The way to check is either compression test or remove a cam cover and see if the rocker arms have adjusters on them or not. If adjusters they’re solid rockers and the higher compression Gen2 engine, if no adjusters then it’s a hydraulic lash adjustment and the first gen engine with lower compression. Cheers Bennie
    1 point
  7. What, no “how big is your tank” for accurate comparison. @Raynman1989 you really need to accurately record the number of litres put into the fuel tank against the distance travelled. This will give you very accurate fuel usage records to compare. The EJ22 - what did it come from, a Gen1 or Gen2, and what was your original EJ22 from? The Gen2 EJ22 has a higher compression ratio to that of the Gen1, yet externally they both look the same. It could be a difference of compression ratio, that or you’ve got a worn engine. Also check for codes Cheers Bennie
    1 point
  8. I guess I should mention that when we camp with the Forester I remove the rear seat and cargo area floor and install a custom sleeping platform that I actually fit onto (6'1"). You have to slide the front seats all the way forward, recline them forwards to the dash, then flip out the headrests for the sleeping platform. Custom cut mattress topper foam (4 -in. thick) and custom cut window covers. Wish I had some photos handy...
    1 point
  9. So an update after 5 days straight of trying to get this thing put back together... The motor would crank and run, but wouldn't rev past 3200 rpm or so... and after a few seconds just studder and die. I spent HOURS maticulously changing every old crusty vacuum line, checking and double checking the airbox for cracks, and cleaned the MAF because it felt like it was running super lean. My next step was going to pull the throttle body off and clean it - thinking maybe it was getting stuck partially open, but then I had an epiphany... So the car was carbed before, so when collecting parts for the swap I ordered an aftermarket EFI fuel pump for a GL from Rock Auto (yes I swapped all of the rubber fuel line sections for FI grade all the way from the tank to the motor). I got it in the mail, put it in temporarily for testing and threw the box away (I'm an idiot). After looking, I can only assume that Rock Auto sent me the carb fuel pump (the dumb thing doesn't even have the part # stamped on it)... so after two days of troubleshooting vacuum leaks it was the fuel pump! So it's either the wrong pump... just a bad one... or I fried it somehow... I just know for sure that it wasn't supplying enough fuel and/or enough pressure. After doing research on here, I noticed a bunch of folks were running inline fuel pumps from early Ford F-Series vehicles from NAPA. Well, our local NAPA wasn't any help in getting one so I found one with similar specs from O'Reilly - think its rated at 40-50gph at 80psi... Tossed it on and VOILA, motor runs like a top! Also, during all of my testing I had all of the dash removed except for the gauge cluster and could not figure out why my alternator wasn't charging my battery... Some more USMB research and I found out that the charge light has to be connected to complete the circuit... and the charge light in my car is on a secondary light panel just below the gauge cluster... plugged in that section of indicator lights and another VOILA, battery is charging... however, my fusible links started roasting. I had spliced in my EJ alt wires directly in to probably the last 6" of EA wires going in to the fusible links. I'm going to swing by O'Reilly on my way home and just grab all new 8 or 10 ga. wire and some new fusible link wire and replace it all. Whats left: - Brazing the new EJ A/C compressor-side fittings onto my EA A/C lines - Connecting the ECU A/C wires into my A/C Switch and A/C Relay on the car - Making some brackets to hold my temporary power steering lines away from my axle (still need some stock EA82 3rd gen power steering lines... Check my "Wanted" ad here on the forum if you have some!) - Permanently mount my ECU and main/fuel pump relay - Weld my exhaust together - sucks because I had made an entire new 2" exhaust for the EA82 a couple years ago, but now I want to go bigger for the EJ (2.25"). So I made the front section with 2.25" with a reducer to 2" so I have the option of swapping out the rear with a 2.25" setup later without having to mess with the headers or the new front pipe I made up - Wire up and install my new quad-headlight setup - etc etc etc...
    1 point
  10. This was not just a Saturday arvo knock up! I ended up hitting it with not quite dark gray vinyl paint, and it looks pretty neat if I don't say so myself. I cut the entire hash tray and radio fascia out, made a brace across the top behind the mesh and employed a plastic, textured push pin trim plug each side. I nearly splashed out on a DIN sized front speaker for below but could spend pennies better. Hope I have inspired a few more custom jobbies☺
    1 point
  11. Here is the slanted style console in my 1983 EA81 Wagon.
    1 point
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