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Low mileage is actually a bad thing with the 4 speed. Matt who I previously spoke of has an absolutely MINT, garaged, all original 83 GL wagon with 52k original miles on it and 3rd gear is shot in that transmission already. Grinds and pops out of gear because it never had the retrofit done. That's why he is considering potentially doing the retrofit on it at some point (likely with my help). Since he works at the parts department I think he has hoarded enough parts over several years of searching that he might have a chance of getting it done. But he is leaning toward a 5 speed swap because they are so much better. If someone truly wanted me to attempt the job........ I'm going to charge double what a modern 5 speed rebuild would cost due to the effort, difficulty finding parts, R&D, substantial learning curve, custom tooling that will likely never be used again...... So about $5,000 GD

No. That's not what these do. The timing belt is designed to last well beyond it's replacement interval. 105k and 10 years is the replacement interval. The design life is at least 50% more than this..... probably 100% more. GD

Check the fusible links and all the fuses. GD

I have found the problem. After reviewing the wiring diagram supplied by a friend with AllData access, I saw that there is a separate branch of the Ignitor/Distributor circuit leading off to the Automatic choke. The wire had come in contact (direct ground) causing my fuse to blow.

Yes. It's also nice on toast. GD

thanks for the tip GD. I assume you apply it to the outer lip of the plug wire as shown below at the widest point of contour? Or do you slather it over everything from the front bumper back to the A pillar;-)?

Probably wire, Switch to another cylinder, clear code and see if code returns on the new cylinder. O.

I have a 2014 XV, regular model. The original Panasonic battery lasted 6 yrs and 44k miles, just now replaced it. Was reading 7.68V as I tried to start the car, and it just clicked a few times. Replacing the battery is straightfwd with a small 10mm combo wrench. Your electric rear hatch will not work once you disconnect your old battery, so don't have the new battery sitting back there. Rear brake light bulb was also original and easy enough to replace yourself, but note a couple of things. You want a 10mm socket to remove the two black screws that retain the entire tail light assembly onto the frame, beneath the rear hatch. Once the two screws are removed, you probably want to be wearing grippy gloves as you carefully but firmly pull the entire tail light assembly STRAIGHT back from the care to remove it, NOT out to the side. There are plastic retainer clips inside that you can't see or get at from the outside, and you will crack them if you try to pry the tail light off the car sideways. Capiche?