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I put some of the same straight sae 90 EP GL-5 my tractor takes. I'm in South Florida so no freezing temps here, and I buy it in pails, was like less than 10 bucks worth it oil.

Wow. Again, ASSuming it's an old gen, and that's really 25-30 year old oil, it's definitely time to get it out of there. But the shavings are nothing to worry about. They use a metallic plug for a reason because shavings happen. Yep, plain jane GL-50 80w90 will treat it well.

+1, penetrant isn’t necessary or the key here. No need for it. I use it sometimes down the shaft, maybe speeding things up a little towards the end.

What Scoby4wd wrote, regarding fractional turning + what I wrote about heating. idosubaru also, the penetrant won't get through all the crud, if they are really bad. The reason the heat helps so much is that aluminum expands more than steel at the same temperature. Rust & corrosion expand, that's why they get stuck in the first place. Keeping within normal operating temperatures means seal, etc. are not damaged, along with metal characteristics.

That would be on the 255/257 with the narrow oil pans and the short dip-sticks..... not applicable to the 205 with it's flat bottom pan and low oil level. GD

Normal. In fact, looks like a pretty small amount for a manual transmission with that many miles on it. ASSuming it's actually an old-gen car, very small chance it's never been done in that time.

That doesn’t do anything here. these are long bolts, top will be sealed shut at the head and the corrosion is way below that and if the corrosion is thorough it’ll be over a long portion of the entire shaft so it needs relatively drenched to have any chance of soaking down the entire corroded shaft length. That’s why my description, and the previous comment, mention working the bolt back and forth to get it backed out enough to get fluid under the head of the bolt. Wash rinse repeat a lot. If it’s real tight take breaks to let localized heating dissipate.

I have found the problem. After reviewing the wiring diagram supplied by a friend with AllData access, I saw that there is a separate branch of the Ignitor/Distributor circuit leading off to the Automatic choke. The wire had come in contact (direct ground) causing my fuse to blow.

Yes, I'm planning on keeping the rims bare.