Leaderboard

If the pump looks like that, then the rest of the engine is likely not far behind it. Putting a really nice pump on there is a great way to destroy the good pump when it encounters all the metal from the engine. The pump isn't going to help the situation. GD

Thanks a lot for all the input, guys.....got it lined up to be done in time, unfortunately do not have the tools/time/experience to DYI this one so gotta bite the bullet, at least there is one shop who can squeeze us in.

ECM is not involved in starting on an 84. GD

look up here: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ O.

Same for EA81 - 20 mm Three per head

Nice! ... ... This thread deserves a Photo of the entire Subie. Kind Regards.

The coil bracket has to be grounded. Make sure the bolts holding it to the body are tight. Also insure the wiring harness for that little transistor whatever riveted to the coil bracket is plugged in.

The rubber could be going bad and the center hole could be reamed out from the bolt being loose. Had it happen on our 95. I replaced ours with a new Dorman part from a local auto parts store and it works good. Remove it and look at the center hole for ware from the Key like in the picture. The Key is hard and normally does not ware, but it will chew up the pully. Maybe someone knows of a good one that is cheaper, but this is what I used. First Dorman in the list.

Very unlikely that an old Subaru is going to be an "investment". Even the most valuable old Subaru's - typically the pristine low mileage Brat's, etc - only fetch about $10k. Not very impressive in the scheme of automotive investments. I expect my 1984 GMC Jimmy (K5 Blazer) will be worth $25k+ within the next 10 years. Being I have $5k into it - that's likely a 500% ROI. An old Subaru is likely to have cost more than it's worth by several times over during it's lifetime. The net profit will be negative after you consider the purchase price and all repairs over it's lifetime. It will not be an investment at all. Especially the most common of Subaru's - the station wagon. They are not what people are looking for - sure some people are, and some have fond memories of their parents EA82 they grew up in, etc. But those people will be few and far between compared to more popular and memorable vehicles like sports cars, lifted trucks and SUV's (4x4's), etc. The relative numbers that are available (they are still common), and the lack of demand means there's a surplus of supply - driving down the values. And when people look into owning one they find they can't get parts and service for them - further reducing their viability for collecting - vehicles in this category aren't collected for their rarity or their performance, etc. They are only collected to be used. The types of vehicles that attain great value are pretty easy to recognize - they are rare, or sporty, or unique, or iconic. Trust me no one is really looking for a Chevy Citation, an 80's S10 truck, a Ford Granada, a Celebrity Station Wagon, or an endless number of other vehicles that are just forgotten history. Why? Because they weren't special. The Subaru EA82 station wagon is not special. And will never be worth anything with the exception of a handful still out there that are basically unused with just a handful of miles on them. Anything with more than 50k miles will be essentially worthless. GD

Before you do anything else, I would recommend a Chilton's or Haynes manual to help. And search this site for pictures (I'm not going to make a super long post here) of various parts so you have an idea what you're looking for. Aside from gaskets, the tools you will need are: Ratchet and extension Torque wrench or meter capable of hitting at least 50 pounds. 8mm socket 10mm crescent/box end wrench and socket 12mm cresent/box end wrench and socket 14mm socket 17mm socket Pliers Flathead screwdriver Gasket scraper/poker/set/etc 600+ grit sandpaper Wire brush Brake fluid or similar (to help remove gasket crap) Oil/catch pan Hammer and piece of wood (dowel is good) RTV silicone capable of holding a seal for motor oil Marine grease or vasoline Paint pen or white out (optional) Flashlight (optional) Tray/box for holding tools, and loose nuts and bolts (optional, but really really recommended) I assume I forgot at least one tool--seems to always be the case in real life, so I will assume it is here, too. Gaskets you will need (at a minimum): Head gaskets Intake manifold Exhaust Manifold Valve cover and rubber bolt 'washers' You can do like I did on my first attempt. Take it all apart, clean everything, put it back together. I...learned a few things that way. Much easier to just ask (as you did here), search the forum (button up near the top-right), and loosely follow the Chilton's or Haynes manual. I say loosely as they sometimes skip steps you need, or add unnecessary ones. DO follow the torquing steps and charts, though. I'm not going to walk you through it--if you really get stuck, post a specific question here, that's the easiest way to go through it. I will write out a basic rundown, though: Remove the battery. You will need the space as well as the distinct lack of electric shockingness. Remove the spare tire. Drain the oil and coolant. There is a coolant drain plug on the bottom of each head, some are not drilled into the water jacket, so don't worry if nothing comes out. Remove the air boot, filter, etc up to the injector/carb. Undo the exhaust manifold bolts (14mm) and drop the manifold. Let it hang from a string/wire/rest it on a block/etc Tag and undo all spark plug wires, gas lines, and electrical harness. Tag and undo/move any vacuum lines relating to the intake manifold and/or head. Undo and move or remove your: alternator, power steering, and a/c stuff. Remove the timing belt covers, loosen the tensioners, and remove the belts. You may have to pull the crank pulley, radiator, and fans to do this. Carefully (emphasis on carefully) remove the bolts holding the intake manifold in place. These bolts are a pain to drill and tap if they break off. I've done it. Remove the valve covers (10mm). Remove the cam towers (10 or 12mm, I forget). Following the diagram in your Haynes/Chiltons manual for the head-bolt loosening sequence (17mm). THIS PART IS IMPORTANT. The sequence is the same for both heads. The piece of wood and hammer are for gently persuading your valve covers, cam towers, and heads to separate. Chances are they will be lightly 'glued' via their gaskets. Have the heads milled at a machine shop (search this forum for info on this, there are some specific things you will need to tell the shop I don't want to take up room explaining in this post). Clean all surfaces to the point they are so smooth you can not detect even a slight bump with your fingernail. Put head gaskets and heads in place and tighten to specification in the sequence directed by the book. Put the rockers and lifters back in place. Use vaseline or marine grease to hold the rockers in place until the cam tower is installed. It will later dissolve in the motor oil. Use RTV silicone to seal the cam towers and put them in place. Put new gaskets (rubber) in the valve covers and replace. Put your intake manifold back on. Replace and tension the timing belts. Search the forum for how to time the motor. It's not hard, but I won't go into it here. Replace alternator, power steering, fans, radiator, vacuum lines, wiring harness, gas lines, etc. Tie up loose ends. Fill with oil and coolant. Start. That's about it. Use the search button a lot, and ask a question if you don't find the answer. Not sure there is a good write up on head gaskets, but the various points are discussed ad naseum and plenty of information will come up in a search. If you have a question with no apparent answer, someone will probably link you to it, or answer it directly. Pictures are really helpful if you get stuck--take one and post it, circle or highlight the question rather than go round and round with lots of posts trying to explain something. Good luck!