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Yep that's the one. We use that pump on all our engine builds. GD

Hey guys. Just rebuilt my dash clock using a much more reliable 2001(?) Toyota Corolla clock. Going to post photos if anyone is interested. Probably won't actually install it for a while still.

in the old days, I sometimes had to stack 2 gauges to get an odd size.

Yeah the TCU is probably on it's way out. Could be solder joint problems. You can try baking the TCU circuit board in the oven to reflow the solder. And if there's any bulging caps, replace them. But that may only be a temp solution. Unfortunately this is what happens with 30 year old electronics. The ECU in my 90 Legacy loaner had about 6 codes that would never go away - put a LINK ECU on it ($2,000 in standalone hardware.... but it's an R&D car for EJ swaps into Vanagons....) problem solved. The original ECU in my 86 Trans Am died from a solder joint or circuit board crack issue. Seen plenty of newer Legacy models (05 to 09) have dome light passenger airbag indicators fail from solder joint cracks as well as the entire HVAC/Stereo units in those cars. Aging electronics will be the death of most cars that have no support for new replacement modules and can't otherwise be repaired. The 4EAT.... unfortunately there's no standalone controllers so once all the original TCU's die or aren't obtainable, etc..... basically it's a manual swap or scrap it. Unless someone wants to build a controller with an Arduino.... GD

One of the four bulbs in the high-mount brake light of my 2000 Legacy wagon went out, and I lost cruise control. There are four bulbs, so you really got to take the cover off to check and be sure; one might be easy to miss. I also found one of my side brake lights was intermittently going out because of a loose connection (compressed socket contact tab), which could be manifested by lightly wiggling the bulb while on its socket. This could explain why cruise control would only work for me intermittently in recent months. Replaced bulb, tightened loose connection, and cruise control returned immediately. High-mount bulb type was a 912. Side brake bulbs are an 1157.

is it better IMMEDIATELY after a battery disconnect reset? if so, that could point to a bad sensor. If not, the problem could be something physical; valve problem or injector problem or ???? the ECU ignores sensor readings for a coupla drive cycles after a reset, it just reverts to using a factory baseline ROM with nominal values. in theory - lol

I tried that first. I could see that 5 or 6 of the points were bad. When I connected it to 12v, it would only light up when two of the buttons were pushed and would not retain the time. Had a couple of goes at it and could not get it to work. To make matters worse, the battery wire on the factory harness doesn't have power. The acc and illumination work. I will be wiring this one to the stereo area when I get the ol' Loyale fired back up in another month or so.

Nice. When mine gave up I resoldered several of the factory solder joints and it’s good as gold. Pulling it out and refitting it took longer than the fix once the iron was hot! Cheers Bennie

Negative. Those cheap black painted pumps (and and Orbit branded "ACL" pumps) have serious problems with the relief valves sticking open and producing zero pressure on startup. Use an 11mm oil pump for an STI. You don't need a 12mm. Those are for twin turbo applications and engines with AVCS, etc. GD

It took me a while to even summon up the courage to be humbled/humiliated by everyone publicly when they hear I found the solution... Every day after working in a 110⁰ printing shop (where I am the owner and as any business owner is well aware, it is a STRESS FACTORY), I would come home to tend to my delicate steed, the 1984 subaru gl wagon 4wd. And hey, cut me some slack, Im only 23... lol. The diagnosis was, no power to the dash, and no fuel delivery. After swapping the stock hitachi carb for the weber dgv 32/36 and following the instructions to the best of my ability, I proceeded to replace the fuel pump as well. I lost dash power right after the terminal (unsure of color) popped off my IG switch and made contact with another terminal. I checked all the fuses (or so I thought). Another week went by and I trudged myself back over to my nightmare vehicle just to find a fuse HAD blown. Despite the frustration with myself, it was a HOORAY moment. Dash power is back. But still no fuel... I checked power the FPCU, I checked power to the Fuel Pump, I checked power to Neg lead of IG coil on crank, all good.. SO WTF. So after countless hours scrolling through forums, reaping the internet, flipping through my haynes manual endlessly (and slamming it shut a few times) it was my dad who found the solution. My dad hates working on cars. He has refused to give more than 15 minutes of input every time I ask for help. But he asked me.... if the fuel pump.... was pumping the right direction..... "OH MY GOD, ITS NOT" I thought. After 15 minutes out here on this fine Oregon morning and we have power and fuel delivery once more. I know the idle speed screw, timing, timing advance vac, and fuel mixture will all be the antagonists for today but we are 1 step closer to getting her back on the road. Thanks for reading and feel free to dig in, you wont hurt my feelings. haha.

No, its going if front of a 5 speed dual range.

Radiator is full.

Vacuum hose isn't reconnected or one of the plug isn't plugged in/fully seated Verify all connections are fully seated and proper - O2 sensor from dropping exhaust, trans connector, any engine connectors disconnected. Check for vacuum leaks - intake manifold hoses and the brake booster vacuum hose is particularly easy to forget or not have fully seated.

My '69 Mercury Comet Coupé already reached 45 Years, all of them with us, as part of my Family ... ... Kind Regards.

I Did a Short Video that day, of my Mercury Starting after Eight Months, you can see it Here: Let me Know What do you Think about it... Kind Regards.