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You’re sort of juggling a few issues at once it seems - mixing tires, cost, and a shimmy. I understand that. As far as mixing tires I gave you what you need to know to do whatever you want. It’s not a big deal at all if you just pay a little bit of attention. There’s nothing to worry about, don’t let online doomsday preppers dissuade you. The general commentary about it is wise for the non mechanically inclined masses, but otherwise It’s practically irrelevant for those who dont mind paying attention and can follow logic.

It won’t be a throw out bearing. More likely either third gear is worn out. Cheers Bennie

cram some qtip or absorbent sponge like material into the weep hole. If it’s saturated you know it’s emanating from there.

GD is right for General one size fits all recommendations. That’s best practice. Keep the newer ones - newer is better for winter and rain traction. That being said I do it all the time. If you care at all about snow or rain traction use the newest tires that haven’t sat outside I mounted on a vehicle exposed to the sun. Age and sunlight destroy the material compounds and degrade snow traction like flash paper. Don’t go by when you bought them or how old you think they are - There’s a 4 digit date stamp on the sides of tires that tell when they were manufactured. Go by that. That aside - these older Subaru’s wear quicker on the front tires. Measure disasters (or tread depth if they’re all the same model tire) and install the two largest circumference tires up front and they’ll wear down to match the rears. No big deal. if you’re worried about it run the two larger ones up front in FWD, rotate the front two tires to wear down via the driven wheel if needed and they’ll wear down right to the rear diameters and no worries about it. That’s just a waste of time for me though but if you’re worried it’s an easy remedy.

Don't mix brands and models of tires. They can vary dramatically in diameter regardless of tread wear and size ratings. GD

That was originally soft tubing. It turns hard from the engine bay heat near the turbo. That is one of the hoses for the boost control solenoid. Replace it with generic silicone vacuum hose. GD

in the old days, I sometimes had to stack 2 gauges to get an odd size.

The leak I've usually had on those was the gear lube from the differential. No such thing as stop leak for that. If you were 1-2 hours away from the center of CT, I'd consider picking up the transmission if it is working. I got one a few years ago for $50. I run 3ATs in mine - the only way to get many of the parts is by collecting used ones. The same goes for the engine.