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Anyone tried one of these? https://www.ebay.com/itm/254070262777 Looks like it would allow stock air box to fit. I found one site that listed it at 2-5/16”. Which I just measured and looks right.

OEM gasket, new hardware, clean mating surfaces and you're done. Install new Subaru OEM exhaust gasket with new OEM studs and/or exhaust nuts onto clean mating surfaces to achieve proper clamping force. if you just install new nuts, or don't install any new nuts/studs - chase all the reused studs/nuts with a tap/die set so they're all clean metal and you get good clamping force. address any studs that strip as needed. often times the nut just pulls the stud out with it and thus the stud/nut combo functions like a bolt. sometimes the studs strip the engine block. sometimes the nut is so rusted it just rounds off and won't come off. address each individual scenario as it occurs, there's no way to predict if it will or won't. use good 6 point sockets, do NOT touch those with 12 point sockets. they're the same thread and pitch as older Subaru's so you can do the same thing as mentioned many times - tap to that commonly used 7/16" or whatever it is exhaust stud size. i forget, i've got all the parts to do it though. tap to 7/16" (i think), bottom tap to the same, then install your new gear.

THERE. IT. IS. And it was blown. So I put a new 5a fuse in and started the car. No blown fuse, maybe my old carb had an issue. I now have 12v going to the electronic choke and I now have a fully open choke when the car is warm. BAM.

ordered up the aluminum tubes for the intercooler and radiator pipes first step was get the radiator pipes made up, lower & up pipes for both sedan and wagon more alignment goodnesses stuff in SS, radial rod fully adjustable for caster & centering the hub under the body of the car.

these Subarus don't really have a proper toe adjustment so I came up with a heim joint with threads so I can adjust the Alignment much easier, and its all made out of SS so it will never rust original subaru leone Version 1 : hard to adjust live on the alignment rack. Ver II perfection ! made this long time ago for the bushings in the arms now the wagon will have all pillow ball heim joint ride like the sedan

Setrab oil cooler fits so nice ill have to convert the sedan to this model soon

site is still live..... http://www.indysworld.com/subaru/index.html center lamp stuff can be found on the left side, under the original USRM, or the Helpful diagrams page

If the body is solid it’s worth getting going. I agree although I don’t know your skill level , with doing it yourself. For now. And hopefully you’re the only cat this car needs to purr. Lots of drama about the Hitachi but many are fine to go forward with. There’s several issues that can occur , or not. Best to remove , soak , and using forced air clean it out with no metal , maybe you know this stuff ?? And then a fresh carb kit. They’re around $20ish on eBay. Don’t be afraid to get most any brand. You’re not going to find a factory kit , some may hoard them but virtually don’t see them. They’re pretty much about all the same kit. Watch your float level through the sight glass on the drivers side of the carb. You’ll likely need to adjust or at least clean the heck out of the float bowl chamber. Get a factory service manual. There’s several on eBay now that apply. You can use any of those thick manuals from October 1977 through 79 for sure. They’re all the same animal. Very little to note at all. Your 79 is the first year of all States getting electronic ignition. No points ! Enjoy that. If trouble starting breath and relax. Take note of the alternator and the signal it sends to the voltage regulator and to the fuel pump. That catches lots of folks off guard. Its all got to be harmonious or it will start and die out in a few seconds. See that happening , read this all again. They recommend replacing the VR and Alt at the same time. But several folks say that doesn’t have to happen. Check each component or have them checked. No matter how solid or where you live there’s a couple spots to note for debris accumulating and causing rust-into pinhole rot , etc if in worse climate. One spot is way down under the cowl which sits in front of the front windshield. Take that off and clean up the corners. Use good light from inside and look for pinholes or any holes. Wheel aprons are notorious in salty road places. Lower firewall too. Pull the lower bolts off the fender tails and rinse out and crap with a hose. Open the front doors and you’ll see. Typical build us spot often causes that lower tail of the fender to rot. And then the body where it mates up at the sill. Rear - check brake lines , and body generally all around the tank and suspension especially where it bolts to the unibody. Fuse block has a tendency to get super hot , even catch fire on the bottom two fuses , maybe bottom three. Headlight fuses. You’ll read about it. Shifters rattle - find the bushings , little white polypropylene or similar. Not too easy to find but they’re out there. Hopefully guys are copying those and other parts now. And there’s a sort of Seat bushing on that shifter , for lack of proper name , and that sits on the tranny and takes an effort to do but also worth it if you’re really wanting to get every little itch scratched. Also a seal there atop the trans which leaks so find that. It’s small. Which brings me to the Factory Parts Manual. A few guys like me will have them. I think you may be able to find online. If so , DO IT !! Exploded views are SO helpful. You’re going to have a blast and show them up ! And way before September. Enjoy !