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ABS can be sensitive to system voltage on some models.....maybe check charging system?(the other 2 may be disabled for ANY other failure)

These washers with bonded rubber insulators can look pretty ugly by now. I found an update repair option a few years back on 99 Impreza front suspension. Lower control arm, rear bushing location. Just the rubber, figuring we can glue to original washer. Probably about 4 mm larger diameter that gets swallowed up pretty easily. The first pic is actually original unit overlaid on the Impreza insulator, you might just imagine you can see this looks like a shadow They look to be a better quality or more robust rubber ring. Thought worth sharing with pictures here. If it went to Facebook it likely just be seen, forgotten, never to be found again

I used an old conveyer belt. It was a bit tight but it works well. Everything is solid, no real new noises either. Gen3 Liberty and Outback’s could be another source on the rear end. I’ll check it out next time I’m close to Basil (Sister’s Gen3 RX). Cheers Bennie

Map sensor in on the throttle body. Air Temp sensor number 10 in the drawing, is on the air box connector E20. I guess they don't want it in the direct flow of air, but off to the side.

If the 03 is non-turbo then it's the same engine. GD

You were right my friend! Found a blown fuse that looked old old old. Got a new 5a fuse in, I now have 12v to my choke. And it is functioning normally. Awesome!

From all the research I've done, these engines wind up getting killed due to the owner trying to squeeze more power out of it by simply increasing the boost pressure. This generally results in blowing the head gaskets which overheats the engine. Biggest thing about these engines is that they overheat, if you want to prevent this I highly recommend installing a dual core radiator, oil cooler and an air charge cooler. If you have an auto tranny give it a separate cooler as well, so the radiator doesn't have to deal with the heat. Apparently the dual core radiators for a modern BRZ will fit these with minor modification. Also keep up the regular maintenance on the cooling system, run some radiator flush every other year to clean the radiator and coolant passages. As for the getting more power, it can be done but don't just crank up the boost. If you can, just leave the boost at the stock 7psi. Injectors from a Nissan 280ZX are direct bolt in with double the flow capacity vs the stock injectors. Hook them to a megasquirt ECU for better tuning. Change the air filter housing for better breathability. Some people have said that advancing the ignition timing to 28 degrees was good for adding power too. All the little mods add up. I'd bet you could get this engine up to 150hp without ever touching the boost. Hope some of this info helps, best of luck.

to extend the life of your engine, you will first want to start running a high-quality synthetic oil - probably 20w40 or 20w50 - change it frequently too, my preferred oils are Castrol and Mobil 1 the engine block design is quite good actually (the same block/engine is used in some custom aeroplanes, in stock turbo form) - cylinder walls are consiterably thicker than most other cars of that era, and the block is aluminum alloy, not strait aluminum (that simply wouldn't work due to aluminum's thermal expansion rate) - the problem is that the turbo takes all its coolant/oil from the #3 cylinder instead of from a centralized point, like later turbo soobs - it might be good if you could plumb the coolant into the heater circuit instead of the #3 cylinder NEVER OVERHEAT THE ENGINE - if the cooling system dies, so does your engine - because of the afforementioned coolant flow issue, the headgaskets will blow due to the excessive heat on #3 in very short order - HG's are the biggest problems on these engines intercooler would be good for the engine - FI pressure & all is a nonissue if you injectors/FI system is stock (intercooler won't make a difference in the FI system) - and don't hit the fuel cutoff point (the overboost protection system) - a good idea would be to idle the engine ~30 seconds or more before cutting it off to allow the turbo to cool down and prevent "coking" of the oil in the turbocharger - subaru actually recommends this in their owner's manual BOV is an OK idea, just make sure it vents to the intake duct between the MAF and turbo intake rather than the atmosphere - sometimes it does work venting to the atmosphere, but usually it will confuses the computer and make it go super rich and stumble... besides, it is sloppy to vent it to the atmosphere as the intake is supposed to be closed after the MAF - BOV's protect the turbo, when the throttle is released quickly, not the engine itself - and they make ricers happy (along with their plastic bodykit) - the engine itself will not see any difference one way or the other, at a MAX of 9psi boost stock, I am not sure how important it is for the turbo anyway, unless you add a IC, then it will probably be more important if you search EA82T, you will probably find more info that you can sort through on this subject

If you're talking engine longevity, Lets see, Hmmmmm.....: 1. Heat 2. Turbocharger location 3. Restrictive exhaust 4. Lack of intercooler 5. Lack of BPV 6. Thin cylinder walls 7. Revving engine to redline 8. Only 36psi max of fuel pressure stock 9. Overheating the motor 10. All aluminum block 11. When your mods overtake what the fuel system can provide.... Etc., etc., etc.............the list could go on forever. Basically, abusing these engines without the proper maintanence or tuning will kill them, with the quickness. Patrick