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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/12/20 in all areas

  1. I don't think of Subarus as being low-maintenance. It's more a case of easy- (or at least easier-) maintenance than other makes. Just because other makes don't recommend a lot of maintenance, that doesn't mean that parts won't fail. Yes Subarus can live for a long time, but they do require maintenance, but this is made easier for the do-it-yourselfers.
    2 points
  2. It's a drive by wire throttle body. You are just hearing the electric motor, transmission, and airflow. That's normal. GD
    2 points
  3. Anything AWD in New England that is 17 years old is likely to have a lot of rot. And as cars go the Forester isn't bad on reliability, but it's far from the best - they had head gasket issues and I've seen plenty with failed engines since that era had really small oil pumps. If your friend wants something cheap that will be really hard to kill find him a Corolla from out west. GD
    1 point
  4. it is not uncommon for the pinch bolt that holds the ball joint in place on the knuckle to break.. happens all the time in salt use areas. then begins the fight to get the broken bolt out.. usually with knuckle replacement being the end result. Being you are in CA, you probably wont have a major issue.
    1 point
  5. Head gasket external leakage is another thing to check. We got a 2003 forester with unknown history. Swapped HGs for the MLS units as a precaution and so we know it won’t be an issue we have to deal with in the short term. Valve stem seals were done at the same time. Well worth the effort of putting the time and effort in when the car is new to you - then the “servicing” doesn’t have to happen randomly when needed - just at the appropriate intervals for the usual oil and filter changes with a general inspection to ensure there are no other issues to attend to (eg split cv boot). Cheers Bennie
    1 point
  6. Ok, but thread digging an eleven year old thread about the EA81 probably won’t help. Post an add in the wanted sub forum Cheers Bennie
    1 point
  7. maintenance history is top priority.. timing - did the whole job get done (ie pulleys, tensioner, water pump, etc) or just the belt? and when? oil changes done on time? any history of overheating? headgaskets ever been done? if so, when? Personally - and this is my thing - any new to me vehicle that I dont have a complete maintenance history automatically gets a full timing service, oil change, radiator flush & fill, new NGK plugs, wires if needed (also NGK) and all other fluids checked/changed as needed right off the bat. I then check brakes - condition and wear and replace as needed. Tires are another thing to check.. all the same brand, size, etc.. wear and condition?
    1 point
  8. Clunking is frequently sway bar related, usually end links, but sometimes bushings as well. Super easy to tell....just disconnect one link, that will unload the bar across that axle and the noise should go away. If not, look elsewhere. That rear control arm bushing is fluid filled, so the fluid is likely coming out of the bushing, and will likely only get worse. I believe those can be replaced independently from the control arm (it's certainly possible, I'm not sure if they're available seperately).
    1 point
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