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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/16/20 in all areas

  1. Yes, 03 instrument cluster. Your name suits you well... That is some astonishing work you have done. Truly IOU. I'm at a lack of Questions due to your responses. And I have no more gremlins to short through nor to look for. Speechless. no rush. its on Pause for the moment I'm waiting on a part in the mail. I'm now sure because of you this car will now Start next attempt. Easy like it implies. EZ30
    1 point
  2. Hello again, yeah I know the trannies are mainly the weak links & even wrx 5 speeds but I do not plan to run it hard / abuse it in the way of any hard launches or anything. I have run the car before with some spirited curved road fun but not a lot of hard shifting etc. I just want it back on the road & and have a little more pep. Hopefully this pic uploads, here is my XT6 & new project 60 Ragtop bug (this will be getting a WRX motor swap). Thank you again & once I begin getting parts together I will update progress. I used to follow the subaruxt.com site more regularly, but with it apparently gone I will get onto here more again. Just a little more background on myself, I have had 20+ Subaru's through the years (some of the ones I wish I still had are: one of my 80's wagons (had an 80, 81 & 83), One of my Brats (had an 84 & 85), my 88 3dr RX Turbo) The one I may miss the most is a 90 Legacy 4 dr sedan, bought it wrecked and fixed it up, needed a bigger car for wife & two boys. That car with 2.2 was a tank, ran it until I just could keep up with the rust patches anymore, still ran great when had to retire it. Also my dad was a parts and service manager at a Subaru dealer for 15+ years (their 1st ever new car was a 79 wagon (gold), - wish I had that one or the 77 or 78 (can't remember which it was, but it was dark green) they had before the 79. Anyway thanks again everyone! Shaun N.
    1 point
  3. Ebay is a crapshoot - might last, but probably have issues. I can't do a long block rebuild for that price - not correctly with quality parts anyway. Wouldn't trust it and no one local to deal with so that's an absolute full stop IMO. The reman blocks DO come with all that included (I buy 2-3 a month). And they DO have a 3yr/36k warranty. That warranty is subject to the VIN being provided as AFAIK the warranty is available to anyone the dealer wants to offer it to - be that their own service department, an independent shop (such as myself), or an individual. I can ABSOLUTELY tell you that I have warrantied out reman parts through my dealer...... they have ZERO problems with us doing that (I buy something like $75,000 - $100,000 in parts from them annually). It's VERY rare and I can only think of maybe half a dozen in 10 years. Never a short block, but other reman parts. They DO require the VIN and that the part number matches to that VIN for a warranty claim. So it depends on your dealer. Some will offer you the warranty, and some might not. And it depends on your relationship with said dealer. I buy a huge volume and it's very much in their interest to trust my judgement since that teensy warranty claim is nothing compared to my business volume. GD
    1 point
  4. Manual a/c does not show connector B135. Automatic a/c shows connector B135 and pin 23 Red wire goes to a 4pin connector on the Pressure Switch. They don't say which switch, the High Pressure Cut Out or Low Pressure Cut Out switch in the Freon circuit. (one pair of contacts normally closed and one pair normally open) The Red wire connects to a normally open contact on the switch. The other contact is ground. The normally closed contacts power the a/c control module and the coil of the a/c relay for the compressor clutch. If the pressure is normal, then the Red wire would be normally open and not grounded. Depending on which side it is on, that pressure switch would only operate if the High Side pressure goes too high or the Low Side goes too low and it will cut power to the a/c relay (controls the compressor clutch) and the a/c Control Module. If that happens then the Red wire pin 23 would be grounded and the ECU would see that. What it does with that info I am not sure. With the compressor shut off maybe it will cut back on engine idle or power. Since the ECU is looking for a ground on pin 23 to indicate a problem, there will be voltage on it, probably with the key ON. Check it for voltage. If it shows voltage, I would just leave it.
    1 point
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  6. I'm trying to create an account in order to get at the files, but it's choking because I haven't filled in the "vehicle registration" field (because I have no idea what that means in Oz). What can I enter to make it happy? [edit] Oh, just a plate number. Can you give me an example that'll pass? [edit again] No worries, mate. Snarfed one from google images...
    1 point
  7. They will. That's what they do. GD
    1 point
  8. I had the exact same problem. Worn bushings in the distributor as stated above. I couldn't find any worthy avenues for rebuilding so I'm ended up buying a new distributor. Problem solved!
    1 point
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