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Mileage isn't so much the problem as age compounded by environment. A garage kept car will be less likely to suffer the extremes of temperature, and humidity. Also where in the country the car lives, and there's a significant amount of luck involved. But the solder used and many of the components like electrolytic capacitors will eventually fail. It's only a matter of time. The ECM in my 86 Trans Am worked fine when it was parked but 11 years later when I pulled it from the back of my friends property to resurrect it the ECM would barely function at all and had to be replaced. It wouldn't pull codes, and though the engine would run it wouldn't idle most of the time and smacking the ECM housing would result in better/worse operation depending on the moon and the stars. GD

Yes, two speed. Maybe I could plug in a spare temp sensor and heat it up or just short the wiring to see if the fans run on high. Or unplug the fans and check voltage once it gets hot, make sure both sets of windings on both fans are getting power. Before we replaced the engine the last time (a year or two ago?) it was just running uncontrollably hot on the highway on one trip though, so I don't think that was fan related.

The engine stalls when the transmission is put into Reverse or Drive could mean the torque converter lockup is not releasing and staying in lockup. When driving and coming to a stop the lockup is supposed to release. If it does not release then the engine will stall. The torque converter uses oil to transfer engine power to the input of the transmission and the lockup clutch makes it a direct connection. Like driving a MT and not pushing in the clutch when you stop. The Duty Solenoid B controls the valve in the valve body that supplies oil pressure to the lockup clutch in the torque converter and the solenoid is fed a PWM voltage at 50HZ from the TCU. Pulse Width Modulation is an of off signal at varying length of on time. Like, on 10%-off 90%, or on 50%-off 50%, or on 90%-off 10%, all happening 50 times a second. You need a scope to see those pulses. From the FSM: Engine stalls while shifting to any range. 23 Valve sticking (controlled by Duty solenoid B) 77 Lock-up clutch seized (in torque converter) The TCU will not set a code for those problems. It would only set a code if the Duty solenoid B was open or an open or shorted wire. I did not look to see if there is a way to check that pressure line. It seems like either the valve is stuck or the torque converter is bad.

Mine must be a series one, as it has the white connector with no mate by the coil.

Well, you already had the HGs done on their dime and if there is no leak, I don't think you can fault them (for now at least, time will tell). As GD suggested, it is a prickly little job that should include having the heads resurfaced and a multi layered HG. Not a big deal for an experienced Subaru mechanic. The problem with issues like this is suddenly your ears are already perked up and forecasting disaster. If you didn't hear the sound before, I would certainly raise the issue with the dealer. Let the car sit in his lot and then start it cold to reproduce the sound. Pitch a bitch if you have to since so far all you would lose is the price of the water pump and timing belt if you can get out. It is an 11 year old car so you can't expect "like new" condition. Was there any warranty on the sale?

My weapon of choice was an angle grinder. Very satisfying. Cheers Bennie

That’s a 1400 in that car. And the original version , meaning it has what is called wet sleeve cylinders which are bolted in with shims. Once set correctly you’re good for a long time if you don’t thrash the engine about. But finding someone to do that these days will be tough. So if you want originality you’re likely going to need a factory manual (very easy to find and cheap) and start looking for shims and head gaskets. Theres a couple or so guys out there with some New Old Stock left. I am currently selling off most of what I have BUT managed to sell a bundle of those cylinder shims already. I do have some left here and there. And I have a complete engine seal kit with headgaskets and all. Rest of the car is much like those that followed up to the 80’s. But you DO have front drum brakes. Today looked at in horror but not such a big deal. You’re not going to the track with it. Fuel pump is driven off the signal from a functional alternator and voltage regulator combination. Many folks caught off guard on that. Sight glass on left side of carburetor will allow you to see the float level. If sitting a long time you’ll want to take the float cover off - but we’re getting deep at this point and almost certainly the proper way to deal with this old carb is to soak it and have a kit to install. You’re going to hear the Weber replacement talk here and there. But the old Hitachi might be worth using for a while longer. Don’t just toss it please. Sedans have the fuel tank behind the rear seats and are usually in great shape because of that. But it’s 2020 now and I haven’t played with old sitting 70’s Subarus that weren’t mine in quite a while. But the tank is “indoors” so that’s the big plus. More than likely you can go over it and get it to start. But you know the deal , check it over well and maybe take out a spark plug or all , check oil , etc Hoping it’s a manual. Those first year of automatics were a near disaster. If it’s an auto , be aware that Subaru gave up on their vendors first automatic tranny. And then further issues. Will talk more if applies. Not a whole lot of difference but yes you can put the GL items on a DL for the most part. No difference in engine , just a clock , am/fm radio , really not too much else. Let us know if you’re more interested in just keeping the body going and adapting a 2.2 with disk brakes , etc.

No one will touch the 4 speed. Can't get the parts to rebuild them. And no one has the special tools like the 35mm thin wall socket required to take them down. I rebuild 5 speeds all the time. I tore down a 4 speed once about 20 years ago and nope'd that right into the dumpster. Even made the special thin wall 35mm on the lathe. I wouldn't touch the inside of a 4 speed unless there was $5,000+ involved in the contract. Maybe not even then. It's pretty trivial to make $5k so likely my answer would still be nope. It's not worth your time. The brain drain and lack of parts on these makes them essentially dead. It's like asking NASA to launch a Saturn V again.... Not gonna happen. No parts, no knowledge, no willingness. GD

Head gaskets are a big job and need to be done by a shop that is skilled in these engines. We see a LOT of botched head gasket replacements. GD