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I'll clarify, I LOVE my LED headlights. Considerable improvement in visibility, I've never had anyone flash their high beams at me, I've been on the receiving end of them (me in my Celica and my wife in the Outback) many times and they're completely acceptable in traffic. I don't love the 6000k color, but 4500k LEDs are CONSIDERABLY more expensive. But, I tested them back to back, I make sure my lenses are clear (a quick buff every couple years keeps them looking like new), and aimed correctly. I cannot imagine a situation where a well made and correctly installed LED in a halogen housing would scatter more light where it's not wanted than the halogen, as the light output is smaller. But, it is still important to note that they are different, and how they react with each housing will vary. A friend gave me a set of cheap H6054 LED housings, because the light output was so awful. I intend to use them on my XT6, which is never destined for street use again (and may not even get headlights). I was riding in another friend's Ford van recently, and he was bragging about how bright his new headlights were, but it didn't take long to realize they were casting light all over where it shouldn't be. These were cheap aftermarket OEM replacement housings with halogen bulbs in them. Worked out well for me, he gave me his old ones, they're just a little cloudy, and they'll fit my van, my dad's RV, and my in-laws RV... The point is, the answer is not black and white. Some LEDs work great in some halogen housings, some probably don't. Some cheap reflectors/projectors/lenses suck, regardless of light source they are using or were designed for.

Disconnect your neg terminal. Remove the two small wires from the ALT top 10mm nut. Hook up you battery and see if you still have the draw. Was it an aftermarket Alt? Are you getting the click from the Starter? Good wack with a block of wood sometimes gets the starter going. Could also try jumping the starter terminals.

Well, most of this I learned from reading, but I did have a couple of co-workers that tried LEDs in their non-led headlights. At first they were - "OMG, now the stop signs are really glowing!!!" , I asked them if more folks were flashing them to dim their lights and they said, "well, yeah, I have noticed some of that"........ It didn't work well for them longterm.

i didn't listen to the videos, i generally avoid them because they take long and often recording isn't true to natural sound...and your links said "private" and I couldn't see them anyway. To me, CV noises have always been distinctive and impossible to confuse with anything else. If they saw significant sand, gravel, aggregate road treatment in the winter they can degrade fast. In clean driving with no aggregate exposure they can go 10's of thousands of miles with broken boots with no problems....but if they see aggregate. Imagine rubbing stone or sand on your car hood.... that's happening at high loads, temps, and RPM's in the CV joint if it sees aggregates. did this thing go to the beach or shore or southern GA where there's lots of sandy roads? Or was it offroaded or on a farm with signficant dirt/gravel exposure? If you want to rule out axles you could swap the right and left sides and see if the noise moves.

Torque bind. Change the fluid and ensure all 4 tires are the same diameter (size and tread wear/depth) immediately. If this is an initial onset, changing the fluid 2-3 times can alleviate it. If it needs repair there are two causes: 1. install FWD fuse - if this works then the duty solenoid is probably fine and the clutches need replaced. 2. if the FWD fuse doesn't put the car in FWD and it still binds then the Duty C solenoid is bad. usually best to replace solenoid and clutches at the same time. The transmission doesn't need to come out to repair - they're all accessible from under the vehicle by pulling the rear extension housing case off which isn't that hard. If the FWD fuse works then a work around is to install a switch that toggles between the FWD fuse and no FWD fuse so that you can have either "FWD" or " 'locked' 4WD". Then just keep it in FWD all the time unless you're offroad or in snow. I've done it before and it's a beautiful fit in some situations that don't warrant the full on repair and makes the car 100% functional for $5 in parts and very little time of some simple wiring. Or you can just embrace the high maintenance an leave the FWD fuse in all the time and pull it when 4WD is needed. But if you need it often that's going to be awfully annoying.

That pretty well sums it up. The point of light output on an LED is smaller than a halogen filament. If it's located correctly, this generally means you actually loose some light output. I've used a couple different brands of LEDs in the low beams on my '00 and '04 Outbacks, and I get a fantastic clean cutoff vertically, but actually loose a bit to the sides, but it's only noticeable in a back to back comparison on a wall.

Update: Pouring a spoonful of gas got it started, and it stayed started. I noticed that it is pushing out quite a bit of black smoke. The front bumper on the car parked behind the Subaru turned black with soot. This makes me think I was right about that guy adjusting the wrong screw. And this would explain why the plugs were so overcarbonated. Now to figure out how to undo what he did. (And keep looking for the fuel filter.) <Luckily, I found this in the trunk so that may help Click to See Image> The car was my wife's grandmother's - she bought it new off the lot in ~1982 - and apparently she bought that book somewhere along the way. Thanks again to everyone.