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To answer my own question, the switch is inside the door latch. My passenger side one got stuck in the closed position. Sprayed some WD in the mech to clean out the gunk. Started working again.

Get it there quick !

to me, this seems like it needs contacts and maybe plunger parts in the solenoid. common issue on older Denso starters. parts are easy to find and I think there are youtube videos on the process.

The T6 is fine. We don't recommend any less than a 40 weight. T6 will do. GD

No part of this is a "bolt in". It requires significant custom work. This isn't an LS swap - no one makes much of anything to help you. The EJ trans will require a completely custom transmission cradle and linkage. If you aren't good with electrical and welding I wouldn't attempt it. GD

You can also tell if the bearings are bad by simply checking for wheel movement. Raise the wheel off the ground a few inches. With your hands at the 6 and 12 o'clock positions rock the wheel by pushing and pulling. Any clunking or free play will mean the bearings are gone.

im a bit nit picky on getting the teeth exactly right. couple tricks I do. tap a pin into the lineup hole on the cam sprocket, it helps you see if the notches are lined up from above. Dont forget to remove it. once you get the marks lined up to the cover turn the cam sprocket just a bit back when putting the belt on. if you dont you will likely see the marks move ahead to far once you release the tensioner. backing it up just a bit helps keep the lower half tight under tension without dragging the sprocket too far out of alignment. also helps the belt slide on smooth. these cars are pretty forgiving on the timing, but I like to make sure the marks are exactly in the right spot once the tensioners are set.

I've always just put a little pressure on the tensioner pulley with a pry bar against the water pump. My old car went almost 100k like that, never had any issues. The passenger side I just push up on it from the ground, it's a lot easier to get to.

For my timing belt tension, I used a 2-pin spanner into the cam gear holes. Mine is 1 foot long. Left side you will pull from the underside outwards, right side from the top outwards. Using a luggage scale and a ratchet strap tied to a tree or other solid object you can pull at a right angle to the spanner to pull the proper tension on the cam sprockets. I didn't have a luggage scale, so I just put 17-19lb of water or rocks in a bucket over a pulley. Voilla- 19 lbs at 1 foot with no special tools. I initially did the Miles "close enough" hand tensions but I don't trust that, belt was flapping around too loose for my liking. Also, after checking my spark timing it was off, so I realized I was off 1 tooth on the crank sprocket. Because of the 1:2 ratio, it can be hard to notice that small difference. Re-check the spark timing because old stretched belts can cause it to be off compared to new belts and tensioners. Another mistake I made was to replace the 2 crank pulleys inverted which made the LH belt track too far inboard. Pushed the inner flange off the oil pump sprocket. JB weld has held so far. They're tough to tell the difference. +1 for open covers, I would have not been able to make these adjustments after the fact with them on. Timing belt is part of my normal weekly maintenance check now.

Stop confusing things @Ionstorm66!! If you follow the procedure properly you can’t stuff it up. Line up the cam timing marks on the flywheel, pistons are mid cylinder. So it doesn’t matter as long as the dizzy cam wheel is aligned with its mark when the belt is put on. What DOES REALLY MATTER is the one crank rotation between fitting the second belt. Without this rotation the engine will only ever run on one bank or the other when messing with the dizzy position (rotating 180 degrees). Correct. The 2:1 confusion is from crank rotations. ^this!!* Pfft, more of an option mention than a plug! As @idosubaru said about the EJs - early ‘90s. The real trick is looking at the cam followers/rocker arms. If they’re HLA, non interference. If they’re solid with adjusters, they’re interference. Only time you’ll snap an EJ belt through poor maintenance with an idler bearing seizing. Or copping a stick through the cam cover, I almost did that job once! Cheers Bennie *unless the question is “should I just EJ this?”

I would buy a chain grip pair of vice grips before a strap wrench. You can always use a old belt/rag between the chain and the part with them. I have never had a strap wrench take off something I couldn't by hand. Meanwhile a pair of chain grips will grab an axle hard enough to break the castle nut free with no diff. $8 with a coupon https://www.harborfreight.com/locking-chain-clamp-36813.html Also if you have trouble with the distributor side, pull the ac/alt AND the bracket. Without the bracket you have much better access. Also you can remove the little splash guards under the car. One bolt to the bottom rad support, and one bolt inside the wheel well.