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oddly, they don't seem to show torque for the pump mounting bolts. The nuts on the studs that hold the pulley and fan are 6.7-7.7FtLbs. So I would not go above that.

I have an 87 XT and an 86 BRAT with an EA82T and an EA81 respectively. If either of those motors dies on me catastrophically I'll have to do an engine swap. I know most people seem to like dropping EJ engines into these cars, but I would like to make them both diesel with subaru's EE20 diesel engine if I can. I know that its physical dimensions will work as it is slightly smaller than an EJ22. I was curious if anyone knows what kinda of transmission mods I'd have to perform?

I see what you mean about airlock. I put a peacock on top pf thermostat housing and force coolant in there with motor running to get the air out of that area, but I guess I better do as you suggested with a tap and hosebarb fitting, don't know how much air could be trapped at top of block and what harm it could,do.

The EE20 is garbage. They suffer from main journal inserts cracking and failing. It was an experiment and it was generally a failure. Thus why it was discontinued. GD

No they all suck. Rebooting originals gives 10x better product. Anything else is a waste of time and garbage. Granted, easy train is so enticing you won’t be able to resist until one cuts loose on the interstate and you’re stranded and learn by experience, like many of us have done. So, ignore me, but keep your originals for when the “new” ones fail. “Heavy Duty” on Subaru axles is marketing click bait. It’s nonsense for so many reasons but chiefly old Subaru’s don’t support a market for quality axles. Cheap people will buy cheap and wise owners of reliable daily drivers will reboot Subaru axles. There’s nearly zero market for more expensive quality axles. If there was I’d buy 100 OEM and rebuild them myself and sell them. But it doesn’t exist. Companies know this better than me. The last “heavy duty” axles new to the market I said there’s no possible way they’re any good. Someone on here swore they were worth trying and wanted them to be all that. they were garbage and he had issues with them. Maybe the same trash you’re looking at. HD something or the other. ive seen brand new axles blow up in less than 100 miles multiple times, or click, clack, or vibrate, they’re terrible. I wouldn’t trust one or feel good about it if it did install and had no symptoms at first. The good Subaru specialty shops buy Subaru OEM axles from the dealer or rebuild or buy used OEM ones.

CAm seals don't leak sitting. There is also an oring behind the little piece with 2 bolts that the cam seal is pressed into. The OEM ones get hard and leak also. The new ones I've put in are viton, and don't get hard. I'll see if I can find the torque spec. But yes, something like that sounds about right. The idler pulley - do you mean the one with teeth? I replace the bearing on those. It's a standard bearing, just make sure you get contact seals- if the description does not specifically say contact, they are not good for this application.

Certainly did - L series dual range in Gen1 dual range EJ cases. Worked a treat. That box was swapped out for an AWD L box with phase 2 EJ gearbox front cases and gearing. Yes. Front diff stubs are held in by a circlip on the inside of the spider gears. L and EJ interchange. Driveshaft lengths are still different so a custom length shaft is still required. Over here we got the NA MPFI EA82 L series that has the EJ spec 25 spline front diff stubs and the good 1.59:1 L series low range. It’s all Lego! Back on the 5 stud swap with bigger EJ brakes, you still need to work out something for the rear hub as the L and EJ rear hub setup is completely different. Cheers Bennie

Can be done several ways. SJR makes a plate to lower the back of the diff from the mustache bar (seen in the upper middle of this picture of his kit). AA and BYB both used blocks between the mustache bar mount and the frame rail. While the axle output is so much closer to the rear mount, the biggest effect on axle angle will happen from dropping the rear mount. BUT, I didn't like the angle the diff was at in mine, so my AA-lifted EA82 and my DIY lifted Brat I spaced down the diff from the front hanger (removed the 4 studs from the bracket and replaced with longer bolts. SJR made a cool cast spacer for my EA82 years ago, but on the Brat my buddy just turned up 4 spacers from round steel stock).