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Okay, I am showing my age. I had the car washed today and they turned on the parking switch that I never use.

Yeah, but you checked in in the MY EA81 forum here, not millennials. Funny you mention heater core start point. Australia had a poorly built locally made Leyland. An old mate's first job in Oz was on its assembly line, installing the heater cores.....

http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ factory service manuals, free for the downloading

went to some hardcore MT tires on some cool 15 rims that i painted myself in white is it hardcore off roader now ? well no as my gearbox went to limp mode because of direct clutch solenoid went stuck or smt wrong with it

NTN won't sell axles through the grey market. Their axle division has an exclusive deal with Subaru. Trust me I've asked about it and my sales rep at Worldpac would sell his children to get NTN as an axle supplier. GD

It does take that long. We do them periodically on the 2008 to 2010 WRX's and STI's due to fatigue failure of the pedal mounting box spot welds. About a $1500 repair. And that's not even touching the heater core box. We have it on good authority that the assembly line starts with the heater core hanging from some fishing line and all subsequent parts are then bolted to it. GD

It's usually either: 1. Battery/dirty terminals - clean them up and make sure the clamp to post connections are SHINEY and TIGHT. 2. contacts - replace them, they're $10-$20 and the underside of the plunger can get pitted and black too. 3. degraded wiring/connections - the common solution is to add a new relay/wiring. links to various threads here: A diagram: Those three things should be carefully addressed first. Less common issues are the ignition switch, starter, or the battery itself is weak sauce.

Ah yes the virgin switch

My 1984 GL Turbo at subiefest2020. The only classic one that attended.

after 17 years of ownership, today I discovered that the DS window defogger vent in our '03 OB can be flipped to direct upwards to the windshield!!!

Sorry for the delayed response, I’m having trouble posting photos due to the 2MB limit. Any advice? Drove from the CA Bay Area to Sedona AZ and picked up the car. It’s mostly complete in terms of what I care about. Only things that are missing on the body/interior are the center console piece that has the armrest, the rear view mirror (no big deal at this point. I can find something to stick up there that’s close enough) the drivers side sun visor, the radio unit, the circular trim that goes around the headlight on one side, and I think that’s it. The list grows as I take it apart further and further. Considering the condition of the car, there’s more present than I expected. The engine is missing the top end (intake and up) but the rest of the drivetrain is there. Front discs, indoor gas tank, manual transmission. I’m planning to redo the entire drivetrain with a more modern EJ series setup from a pre DBW vehicle so I’m not too concerned about those things. My first task is the body, as it has its share of damage and a little rust. I’m calling this the restoration stage, which will be everything until the point of modifying and fabricating things to make the car drive again. I’d like to get my hands on a left rear quarter panel to weld in if possible, but understand that’s unlikely, but the rest I feel will fix up pretty easily. Will post photos once I figure out how

LOL. GD

Make sure the pins did not push back out of either of the connectors and are not making a good connection. That happened on our 97 EJ22. I just removed both pins from their connectors and plugged them together and wrapped them with tape.

I believe the cable from the KS is shielded, maybe you have a grounding problem. excessive carbon buildup in one or more combustion chambers could lead to excessive knock. maybe pull and examine the spark plugs for carbon??? I'm about out of ideas.....

you could try the Subaru Coolant Conditioner (rebranded Holt's Radweld) - 1 bottle only, installed per directions ONLY.

No they all suck. Rebooting originals gives 10x better product. Anything else is a waste of time and garbage. Granted, easy train is so enticing you won’t be able to resist until one cuts loose on the interstate and you’re stranded and learn by experience, like many of us have done. So, ignore me, but keep your originals for when the “new” ones fail. “Heavy Duty” on Subaru axles is marketing click bait. It’s nonsense for so many reasons but chiefly old Subaru’s don’t support a market for quality axles. Cheap people will buy cheap and wise owners of reliable daily drivers will reboot Subaru axles. There’s nearly zero market for more expensive quality axles. If there was I’d buy 100 OEM and rebuild them myself and sell them. But it doesn’t exist. Companies know this better than me. The last “heavy duty” axles new to the market I said there’s no possible way they’re any good. Someone on here swore they were worth trying and wanted them to be all that. they were garbage and he had issues with them. Maybe the same trash you’re looking at. HD something or the other. ive seen brand new axles blow up in less than 100 miles multiple times, or click, clack, or vibrate, they’re terrible. I wouldn’t trust one or feel good about it if it did install and had no symptoms at first. The good Subaru specialty shops buy Subaru OEM axles from the dealer or rebuild or buy used OEM ones.

Today, on my way to work, I noticed that even when my foot was off the gas that the car would continue to accelerate. However it was slow, and I saw that my cruise control wasn’t on, so I brushed it off. As I got closer to work, I came to a stoplight and noticed this unintentional acceleration getting worse. When I was driving into my parking space, the car abruptly , ON ITS OWN ,mind you, revved up to 6000 rpm . As fast as I could, I turned the car off. Later in the day, my cousin came to help me look into the problem. Two things we found, number one, there was a chip of wood stuck between the butterfly valve of the air intake on the engine manifold. ( where the Engine metal meets the plastic) We assumed that was the issue, as wood chip was actually allowing air to get into the system and rev the engine even without pressing on the gas pedal. The real question was how a piece of wood big enough got into that area. That’s where the second problem comes in , I noticed while putting the air filter back in place that before this whole situation I had never had the filter latched in correctly. There’s 2 notches on the bottom of the plastic cavity and you need to make sure the air filter is clicked into those before snapping on the clips at the top. I hope this information helps anyone with a similar problem. I believe the wood chip got in because that air filter was not correctly connected.

That was where I lived before I moved here. Didn't have any luck with this question there either. I made the switch to USMB for a better balance of answers.

It common for the cooler lines to rust out. Easiest way to fix it is yank the steel lines out and just run ATF cooler hose from the trans all the way to the radiator. Its 3/8" inside, IIRC. Be sure to get new screw clamps for the ends. Use zip ties to hold the hoses to the frame. Takes about 6 feet to so both.

STOLEN 1987 Subaru GL wagon. Silver color, EA82 with 5 speed D/R. Stolen Oct. 17th in North Seattle. WA plate AHR0543. The back seat (bench type) was removed. The image is from before the 'Quick-n-Easy rack' and tent install. The roof top tent is a 2 person TEPUI. Travel cover is black. Large black plastic wind deflector in front of tent. The tent fabric is the silver colored all weather, 4 season canopy. I made a larger rainfly that fits over the stock rainfly. Very unique appearance because the custom rainfly is supported by tent poles with shock cord to make long horizontal poles. The tent had defects from the factory. One problem was the holes for the stock rainfly support rods were drilled horizontally. I had to drill vertical holes so the rod anchor places have 2 sets of holes. The ladder side floor has two 4" diameter port holes with threaded covers in the corners for a heating system. Half the heating system was in the tent. The tubes to convey dry heat are 2" diameter stainless steel bellows type tube (very rare tube ). Vehicles all over Seattle are stolen with shaved keys so homeless persons can have vehicles to commit crime and live in. It is mobile family dwelling. The homeless population is immune to prosecution. They park on the streets and can not be towed. If my vehicle is trashed, I will have EA82 and GL spare parts available: engine, heads, case bolts, lash adjusters, mirrors to list a few. If you see this vehicle in western Washington, please call the Seattle Police Dept. non-emergency line 206 625-5011 with regards to incident # 2020-296202 Thanks ahead of time, Silverback