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Subaru, and every other manufacturer, is in the business of selling NEW cars. They aren't trying to obsolete their older products anymore that any other car maker. Which is to say they would love you to buy a new one and scrap that old POS. GD

No trips to Ohio this year or even in the bear future. The county I go to has been a virus hotspot from the get go. Several nieces and nephews have contracted the virus but all have recovered. Getting the virus at my age would probably do me in. Should finish having the engine out tomorrow.

To clean them properly you’ll need an ultrasonic cleaner - after that I don’t know what the process is in terms of full submersion or not etc. The seals are to stop air leaks into the intake manifold, not fuel leaking from the injector, at least not at the intake end. If you have a dud seal on your fuel rail you’d know about that already. Clean up the area around the injectors before pulling them out. It’ll help with removing them and stop crud getting in where you don’t want it. Cheers Bennie

Awesome, glad you found the work around. You could have your current injectors cleaned and serviced. It could be cheaper than serviced second hand replacement units. Cheers Bennie

It is a leaky injector. Hold the throttle on the floor w/starting in order to clear the excess fuel.

That filter should be on the other side of the pump. It’s a high pressure filter. I’m not sure what you should run pre-pump if anything. I don’t have a filter before the efi pump other than the little mesh unit on the inlet side of the pump. You will have fuel siphon from the tank at just about any fuel level, pressure will be different with tank level. Just be ready for it with a bung in the line from the tank. Cheers Bennie

No worries @bratboy1 After reading @Rampage‘s post, I agree with him too. I drove across the Nullarbor over here with a dodgy efi pump. After filling up with fuel I would have to hit the pump to make it work. It got tricky as I would have to start the engine on the residual line pressure, then jump out and hit the pump to get it cranking. This “worked well” until it gave up as we crossed a busy intersection and stalled. That was a fun “push quickly” to clear the intersection. We got a new pump for the return trip home. Very glad the pump shagged out good and proper in town rather than on the endless Nullarbor! Do you have a surge tank or is the EFI pump feeding directly from the main tank? If direct feeding you could have a blocked pump - pull the inlet to pump line at the pump and see if there’s a mesh filter in there, it could be full of junk. If so, your pump might be ok. Cheers Bennie

Similar thing that happened on our 95 EJ22. Turned out to be the fuel pump. When the engine was started and run for a while and then turned off the engine would crank fine, but not start. I found that the fuel pump would not start if there was any pressure in the fuel line. If I pulled the fuel line and bled off the pressure the reconnect it, then turned the key to start the fuel pump would run and keep running and the engine would start. If I just turned the key on, the pump would cycle on and off and then when I turned the key to start the pump would not start back up. With the new pump in it, I can turn the key on and off several times and the pump will run every time like it should.

Went out for some more desert adventures last weekend. This is a perfect car for the dirt roads in the Mojave. Most areas don’t require tons of ground clearance, and the independent suspension soaks up most of the smaller bumps with ease, especially with these larger tires.

You might have a leaking injector filling a cylinder with fuel when it’s not running. check your oil and see if it smells like petrol. This theory doesn’t work if you tried starting immediately after. Two other things that come to mind - an issue with your starter motor or a sticky/stuck IACV. Is it cranking the engine over at a good speed on initial start up and there after? Cheers Bennie

My 1984 GL Turbo at subiefest2020. The only classic one that attended.