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I wouldn't swap the tranny. I only have manual cars too. If you want a manual, then start with a manual car. As for this car. You said that your pretty handy. I would pull the motor and see what you really have to work with. Then decide from there, what you need to do to get it fully running or put a 2.2 in it. Can you even find a 2.2 for cheap where you are? I just did a full reseal and heads rebuild and you can do it all with surprisingly little bit of tools. I didn't break over $800 for parts and supplies. And you 100% can resurface your own subaru heads because they are aluminum and small.

any back-firing? maybe timing slipped. IACV hose not connected to/fell off of intake?

That is a shielded cable, it cab be replaced by a shielded cable of similar design & size. Not individual wires. Are you getting 12V on the + side of the coil?

you say "rust free" but I am assuming that you are referring to visible body rust... I am wondering what does the underside look like? Sub-frame, etc my 2002 Forester has very little visible body rust for its age, but the sub-frame and behind the plastic cladding, it is in pretty rough shape.

Carb or SPFI? Cam belts installed correctly? There could be more at play here depending on what you have. Cheers Bennie

I’m not sure what you did with timing cover bolts. Its been awhile but I order new high grade bolts with normal bolt heads. Here’s my list of quantity and measurements: im assuming “6” means M6x1.00 thread, a common Subaru size. The first number is the quantity “22A” - so there’s 22 of that size. I think the FSM might have some bolt info which is where I got the letters from. I’m unsure what the last (B?) means: 22 A 6x45 13 B 6x16 21 C 6x30 1 D 6x50 2 ? (B?)

Those codes clear themselves once the issue is rectified. The controllers are simply monitoring real time electrical signals - they are in range or not. Once they’re back in range the code immediately goes away. It’s like your light switch and would be nearly as instantaneous. That’s a little oversimplified, but for the purposes of your question it’s the case. Those markings are jaw prints. The question is was there rodent damage and then subsequent markings as well? If so, the markings aren’t that telling I routinely break parts that were already damaged because they’re damaged - often it doesn’t matter if I damage them more. I don’t carefully remove bad wheel bearings so as not to make them “more bad” - they’re going to scrap. Okay I’m sort of joking here but I’m just unsure on sequence of events and details. It’s nearly impossible to confuse rodent damage with pulling a wire out of socket. Pulling apart results in stretch and fatigue in the copper strands, wire sheathing, and associated conduit and it pulls apart in a very distinctive way. Rodents wouldnt. Pulling it will not create nearly the same type of stretch, gnawing, pieces, material breaking and random fracturing as chewing does. We weren’t there to see it all insitu but it’s nearly impossible to confuse the two by anyone who’s seen both. By your description it sounds like there was potentially some heated discussion - any time attitudes are flying I’m not surprised to see poorer outcomes, miscommunication, or missing data. Keep in mind the service advisors often don’t even look at your car nor have never worked on one before. So you’re getting third hand information that may be practically truthful but relayed with errors. That’s the case in a very smooth and highly cooperative situation but compounded in a more heightened one.

Nooooooooooooooo maybe. If so (its been a while) leaking valve coder gaskets.

Auto to Manual trans swap is 10X the work of swapping 2.5 to 2.2

EJ22 swap all day long and send that thing packing. if you knew how badly it's been overheated it's workable to fix them. resurface the heads (very easy to do yourself, like super simple, look the thread up on here - post apocalyptic head resurface or whatever is the title), use Subaru MLS gaskets and properly torque it and lube the head bolt threads, clean the bolts (reuse them and ignore everyone who says otherwise). if you do all that you're golden....but who knows how badly they've been overheated in the past? EJ22 is the best engine subaru ever made - find one and they're a plug and play swap. awesome engines, super preditable, reliable, and easy to maintain with no headgasket or major issues.

Beast. Those make for good stories and learning experiences. If I did this it would be the same - an extra car for me and no one else.

This little project was more time then money. Being that i did all the work myself in the front driveway under a shade tree, And a tailgate of a pickup. Motor sat on a tire and 2 4x4 wood blocks. (wish i had a motor stand, but covid-19 made the stores around me not stock them for some reason)

I personally dont like it when a post never cames to a conclusion, so... For anyone who reads this in the future. The car runs great and i followed what i was told on here except for one thing. I very lightly polished the crank surface and put in a new stock size bearing for the one rod. I used a shoe lace wrapped around and cut to size 800 grit then 1000 grit sandpaper, and wd-40 for lub. I did not go down to where all the groves were gone. And it was a complete gamble and a half. Also im running full sync oil. But as of a about 2000+ miles the car runs better then i have seen any of my cars before. So i am very happy. Not sure if i said fully all that i did. But i hot water pressure washed the inside and out of the block resealed every single thing other then spit the block halfs. Polish the combustion camber to 1000 grit. Same of the piston tops and valves. Lap the valves. Port and polish intake and exhaust to 320 grit. Full gasket, seals, and rtv ulta black where needed. Resurfaced the heads with the glass top and sandpaper to 320.Put it all back together. Thank you all for your help in making decisions. And all the great info.