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That’s great news then. Multiple previous pumps worked fine. Car has been a regular daily driver. There was no preceding event , overheating, or repair or damage to compromise anything. There isn’t even a small chance of something hard or surprising here. Normally there’s a causative event like prior mechanic damage, front end damage, sat for years and lots of corrosion and uneven surfaces, or an ancient water pump that’s just been in place for an inordinate amount of time. Youre literally striking out on every possible compromising possibility. The only thing that changed was the water pump and gasket. I would verify the pump mating surface isn’t damaged or knicked. If it’s good then Obviously there’s nothing wrong here. My guess is this is a nonissue. there was a slight compromise during the install or gasket issue and simply cleaning the surfaces and an OEM gasket would fix this. Add some RTV to the mix you’re definitely done.

As Click and CLack would say, you get to go to the back of the auto parts store and try all the transmission additives. At this point it can hurt. Once a tranny starts slipping its impending doom. Usually at the most inopportune time

suberdave has repo hubs.....just bought a set from him!! sooooo happy

1st: Post your Ride - year/model - A$$uming this is a '90-'98/'99 if you're running those heads. 2nd: Did it EVER run right after the engine install? 3rd: Hopefully the smart guys will reply as I'm not an engine expurt....but those #'s comp/LD all seem 'good nuf'. 4th: Those are the good gaskets (depending on STi-based year), but I didn't know they were that skinny. Did you double-check your clearance between pistons/valves etc? The '99 OB/GT/SUS use a similar engine (Phase 1 heads on Phase 2 block) but pretty sure the pistons are Phase 1. 5th: My guess (!) is that you have a vacuum leak - maybe the IM isn't sealed since you had to mod-2-fit? 6th: And if your CEL is on what are the CURRENT codes - after they're cleared/ECU reset? Edit:...I'm thinking 1LT is on track. If you had to mod the IM, the timing is likely suspect, but not sure how it affects the comp/LD tests if it IS off? Td

Dealer doesn't rebuild these and you don't want a trans shop to do it. Have you tried changing the fluid and making sure the transmission pan isn't dented and starving the pump for fluid? You could also see if your symptoms mirror valve body issues which happens sometimes. If that's the case - you could attempt (or have a shop attempt) a valve body replacement instead of full trans swap. Finding a list of interchangeable transmissions is usually not possible unless you're lucky. It's not as simple as it used to be. And also they don't fail, and aren't replaced, often enough that we have massive databases for the variety of year/make/models. For the matching final drive ratio, and other reasons, you'll almost certainly be limited to non-turbo OBW's from 2005-2009, and VDC at that. I'm not familiar with any technicalities of 2010-2013 models. The best source is: 1. Go to an online subaru parts retailer and look up the transmission for your year/make/model 2. click on the "Other Vehicles" tab and it'll show you all the years and models that transmission is used in. Then search for that transmission. And also plug in your vehicle at www.car-part.com Some of the JDM suppliers may be able to help you as well, and they're prices are good, though that has it's own level of confusion, but people have installed JDM transmissions in VDC north american Outbacks. There is usually a far wider range of vehicles the transmission is compatible with than is listed by Subaru, which is what you're getting at. But it's not usually easy to figure out in these later model vehicles.