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Just hate an unanswered topic even if it is 5yrs old... Found this thread when I was doing mine last weekend & dropping the exhaust did not look fun so decided to find out for myself. On my 03 Forester EJ25 you can get to the upstream & downstream pretty easily through the passenger side wheel well. Take the wheel off obviously & its pretty manageable reach. I bought a 12pt 22mm box wrench & cut a slot in it for the wire, you can use 7/8 as well but the 12pt is nice for the tight space & limited throw. Just an FYI for anyone else who was searching....

On an EJ, with it just before or just after TDC, you can pound the wrist pin out from the far side with a long punch or round steel. And yea, you won't find a "kit", just individual part numbers directly from Subaru. No need to replace them, though.

cut a slim round or 2, mark the year of removal on them. Kids can use them for a 'dendrochronology' science fair experiment in school, count back to the Gulf War, their own birthday, or the first rover on Mars, etc.

Nah, you didn’t sound that way at all. bought new bolts, totally makes sense. Just some insight into what I’ve seen happen before. And Ive done the same thing before. I work almost exclusively on Subaru’s and have made the same decisions I would for Subaru’s on Ford/Chevy diagnosis, guessing, torque, and parts, and it didn’t work out. what was wrong with the engine when you tore it down? Rod bearing?

As only as there isnt belt hanging off the back of the pulley its fine. On cheaper belts I've had to flip them to get it to ride well, because they arent square.

Then the dust cover is warped. The idler looks find, that's how they sit on the belt. I took my covers off and used a heat gun and flattened them back out.

Everything I wrote here, regarding the Automatic Transmission, happened during the 2018 year. I didn't wrote it before because I was demotivated, due to many reasons, among them is the Photobucket Fiasco which lead me to find another online photo hosting server, and several personal problems which I had to face, plus the fact that I feel like if no one cares about what I write here anymore, it feels like a pathetic monologue; however I really wish that these photos and ideas might be Helpful for some people, somehow, someway, someday... Finally, let me tell you that this two different procedures, completely fixed all the problems with the automatic transmission on the Sephia; they completely worth the effort; the "KiaStein" already has two years since I did all this and still is running and changing Flawlessly; it feels like a much modern car with new transmission. Kind Regards.

Engine all back together with no leaks. I never want to tackle this problem again. Big thank you to all the aided me.

Agreed, it would not have come from the factory with it. Some dealerships might install them (if you buy a machine from the equipment dealer where I now work, we put a block heater in it, even if you didn't ask for it) by default, so it's possible you have one.

No and No. All subaru's can have a block heater installed in them. Some cold climate locations may install them as a standard protocol, but that will be regional/local/dealer specific, not "North America" or "Canadian". If you want a block heater for your Tribeca you just install one. If you don't know if yours has one, someone needs to look.

Went out for some more desert adventures last weekend. This is a perfect car for the dirt roads in the Mojave. Most areas don’t require tons of ground clearance, and the independent suspension soaks up most of the smaller bumps with ease, especially with these larger tires.