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Sorry, guess I haven't posted in a month, but we have been doing some Subaru things. B and I went through the rear suspension on the 2002 white Outback. Went through the shocks, changed the valving a bit, and opened up the holes in the body where they go through to make them much easier to remove. The trailing arm bushing on the right rear was pretty cracked so we replaced that. Removed, anti seized, and reinstalled the wheel bearing while that was out. Have bent a couple of the lower shock bolts now so we drilled and reamed that out to fit a grade eight 5/8" bolt (stock is 14mm or .551") and J remade the bushings to fit. Plan on doing that on the left rear sometime. Secured the rockers better with clinch nuts, bolts, and fender washers. Been doing more shock tuning on the 99 OB as well, want to get it at least reasonably optimized before we assemble a bunch more struts. This is one of the best upgrades per dollar and effort I've ever made on my 99 OB. Piece of polyurethane between the valve cover and skid plate to keep from cracking the valve cover, etc. Old one lasted a while, I think over a year, but it's broken into several pieces (some long gone and not pictured). Got a harder/stronger grade of polyurethane from McMaster. Z cut out and glued this strip of steel to the bottom of it so it won't get cut as quickly by the skidplate. I don't think I'll make another skidplate like this again but it is super strong. Kinda has to be for desert racing as it acts as a plow about 1/4 of the time in the Vegas to Reno. Been working on long travel struts for Z, slammo, and travelvw. At the same time we're going to copy some of the upgrades we've made to my 99 OB to B's Forester and my 2002 OB. Z and J have helped with some of the machining. These are a lot of the machined parts. Almost everything is blanked out. Still need to do some milling on some of the parts but most of that is pretty simple, just slots, flats, and holes. Milled the rears but not the fronts yet. So hopefully we'll be wrapping those up in the next month or so. Want to do a big jump fest when they're all done. Finally got the ball rolling on the last few parts for the 6MT low range too. Really want to get that done. Eventually still want to do the rear knuckles to fit front wheel bearings and axles too.

We resurface multiple sets of heads per week for the last 10 years with that method. Never had an issue. The 2.2 has a smaller bore. You can't use the 770 gasket, etc. We use a gasket from Cometic on the rare occasion that we find the need to do the head gaskets on a phase II 2.2 engine. Surface prep on the block, head resurfacing, proper block thread cleaning, ensure the bolts are in the correct holes (washer size), and use of Amsoil assembly lube on the bolt threads for correct torque without creaking. All important aspects of this job. GD

This is the headlight switch section that was faulty, I soldered a piece of wire to actually allow connectivity between the two needed points for the actual operation of the High/Low beam. The orange arrows point at the exact section where the conductivity was lost hindering the operation of the High /Low beam. @idosubaru The second plan of action was just that, to attach a pair of soldered wires and place a push button somewhere to actuate those lights. In fact, a few years ago I placed an entire custom wiring with a fuse and a relay to operate the high/low beams with a switch totally separate since I couldn't fix the combination switch then. This repair was a home run! As now all the original wirings are in place and the switch works to a 90%

and XTs have 2 more different ones(early and late).not counting the electronic one. According to the parts book,the 3 non XT ones vary by year:85-86,87,and 87 up

I use Valvoline MaxLife but, agree any name-brand compatible should be fine.

Ah, that's a bit different. Your profile says Durham, NC. Where in AK? I've been up there a few times (got married in Girdwood). Those are both Phase 1, different head design and much less likely to fail. Those are for a 2.5. There's no factory MLS option for the phase 2 2.2.

what fel pro part number? Id be curious what they supply for the uncommon Phase II EJ22 If you bought the car recently like this then you have to wonder how badly it was abused prior. Roll dice, assess things... If you’ve owned and driven it a long time trouble free before this then it was probably a glitch during install. 1. Resurface the heads yourself and clean them. It’s so easy, compared to DIY head gasket replacement it’s a drop in the bucket. ”testing them” is a complete waste of time on Subaru’s. They always test fine but you’ll see high and low spots every time if you watch during resurfacing. I don’t want high and low spots on a engine that has head gasket issues from a new factory clean seal job 2. Calibrate or somehow verify your torque wrench and your torque procedures. Ignore Fel Pro recommendations and clean and reuse your original Subaru head bolts if you have them. Use Subaru torque procedure and bolts, even the used ones 3. clean the block - do not use sand paper or wire wheel. 4. clean and lubricate the bolt holes and bolt threads so proper torque leads to design clamping loads. On EJ25s the gasket installed today is not what was originally installed. I favor Subaru, many others do as well, but Fel Pro is used extensively by some shops and I’ve installed a couple without issues. But totally ignore their asinine head bolt comments. Those are EJ25 part numbers, he’s got an EJ22.