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Round 2 First of all, I have received a full refund for Round 1. I have ordered (and paid for) the correct trans from a wrecker in MI. It came off a 2008 Legacy Wagon that was recently totaled. 110K miles. Supposed to ship today........

As a means of a test @john in KY could I connect a wire from injectorr #3 to #4 I can't see why not. Appears that somehow injector 4 is not allowing the other 3 injectors not to fire by "taking away the ground". Use a test light probe and see if 4 fires when cranking the engine. When I had the car running on 3 cylinders, as soon as I plugged harness #4, the car died immediately. Sounds to me somehow injector 4 is somehow back feeding 12 volts in the wiring harness.

This is only a guess without a schematic of the ECU. Each fuel Injector should have one transistor to control it, so there would be 4 identical (Darlington) transistors (usually NPN type). The control chip sends a pulse to the Base of each transistor to turn it on (like a switch) and cause current flow from the Collector (+) to Emitter (-). The Emitters of the two transistors in the photo are grounded through a current limiting resistor. The big resistor that fried. The Collector of each transistor will connect through the socket to a wire going to its injector coil. The other pin of the injector coil connects to 12v. In the burned section is one of those transistors so there should be 3 more with the same part number. Again, I'm guessing, but the photo shows the common thing between two injectors would be the supply voltage and the grounding resistor for the two transistors. If you can, follow the traces from each transistor Collector (the center pin that sticks out from the other two) to the connector socket pin and see what color wire is on the plug. It will match the color on an injector plug. Also check the ground wires on the connector. You can see the two Emitters are connected together and go to the big resistor. The other end of that resistor might to to a pin on the plug for a ground. Different name for the same unit. ECU, ECM, MPFI, SPFI.

We use Amsoil OE in everything. It exceeds all the specs for every Subaru year and model (conventional auto. CVT uses a different Amsoil) so we don't have to carry multiple products. GD

when they leak, oil pressure switches can leak a lot due ti being under pressure. It can pool and shift around under acceleration/maneuvering and drip almost anywhere.

what fel pro part number? Id be curious what they supply for the uncommon Phase II EJ22 If you bought the car recently like this then you have to wonder how badly it was abused prior. Roll dice, assess things... If you’ve owned and driven it a long time trouble free before this then it was probably a glitch during install. 1. Resurface the heads yourself and clean them. It’s so easy, compared to DIY head gasket replacement it’s a drop in the bucket. ”testing them” is a complete waste of time on Subaru’s. They always test fine but you’ll see high and low spots every time if you watch during resurfacing. I don’t want high and low spots on a engine that has head gasket issues from a new factory clean seal job 2. Calibrate or somehow verify your torque wrench and your torque procedures. Ignore Fel Pro recommendations and clean and reuse your original Subaru head bolts if you have them. Use Subaru torque procedure and bolts, even the used ones 3. clean the block - do not use sand paper or wire wheel. 4. clean and lubricate the bolt holes and bolt threads so proper torque leads to design clamping loads. On EJ25s the gasket installed today is not what was originally installed. I favor Subaru, many others do as well, but Fel Pro is used extensively by some shops and I’ve installed a couple without issues. But totally ignore their asinine head bolt comments. Those are EJ25 part numbers, he’s got an EJ22.