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Yep, the 6-cylinder will mechanically bolt into the 4-cylinder car, they are the same chassis. But ALL the wiring will have to be changed, which means the dash has to come out. Having done dozens of engine swaps, and recently replaced the rear subframe in my 330k mile 2000 OBK, the subframe is 1000x easier.

Ones that need the rear cradle replaced can have enough rust elsewhere that it’s a huge waste of time. Make sure it’s worth it with that out of the way. Rear support. They’re replaced fairly regularly. swapping a 4 and 6 is a huge undertaking, extracting, labeling trimming the nasty wiring harness because you have to swap the body side wiring and ECU and do some splicing. If the receiving car is an auto you’ll have additional issues.

New owner of a 2021 Impreza. First Subaru.

On the front top of the block near the power steering pump (from memory) you’ll find an “EA82” in the casting of the block halve. I’d look at dropping the tank and cleaning it out unless you can clean it out/dilute the stale fuel in there to get it running. You might need a new efi pump, if you’re lucky it’ll fire up with the current pump. I’d cycle the pump a number of times to flush the fuel lines before cranking it over. The fuel pump primes for several seconds when you first turn the ignition on and when the test connectors are connected together (engine off ignition on). Cheers Bennie

Engine should be an EA82T , you’ll see that in the heads if you get a good look around them. Lots to say here. The basics are fine but before you get too deep maybe do a compression test. How’s the oil and coolant ? Not mixture ? Closed air system so be sure all ductwork and breathing hoses are not cracked. You found the right place for support. I’m not the best that’s for sure but I did own a couple of these at least. Don’t panic if it blows smoke when you do get it started. Should you need parts they are getting very hard to locate. Best of luck with the project.

if it were me I’d determine immediately if the head gaskets are blown first. But you’re unlikely to be able to do that. We don’t have much info to go on - except that the radiator is broke and you’re asking us what to do. The first time it leaked it ran low on coolant and /or had an air pocket . You can’t just shove the hose on and drive. It needs topped off and air pockets removed (burped). Replace the broken radiator. $80 on Rockauto.com and local chains with online discounts Burp the system. Once you have a leak air is introduced into the system and it’ll overheat until you burp it. You may have “fixed it” by pushing the hose closer but it still overheated due to airpockets rather than the hose/radiator. So it might be possible to “fix it” like you did if you get the air out. But it still sounds like the radiOrr needs replaced in short order Youre playing with a grenade - those headgaskets might be blown or will blow very quickly. If they are then I’d be putting my effort into and EJ22 swap, rather than repair

We resurface multiple sets of heads per week for the last 10 years with that method. Never had an issue. The 2.2 has a smaller bore. You can't use the 770 gasket, etc. We use a gasket from Cometic on the rare occasion that we find the need to do the head gaskets on a phase II 2.2 engine. Surface prep on the block, head resurfacing, proper block thread cleaning, ensure the bolts are in the correct holes (washer size), and use of Amsoil assembly lube on the bolt threads for correct torque without creaking. All important aspects of this job. GD

Welcome to this awesome community! I'm the owner of the yellow one in my avatar (and my profile) since 1985 Kind Regards.

looks nice here's mine;