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I came across and posted the following discussion here and will let the board decide if it is sticky worthy. Through the years, this has been a moving target as Gates fell out of grace. BTW ohter than just posting the link, can anyone tell me how to insert the linked video so it takes up less real estate? i.e. smaller video or thumbnail.

Was it exceptionally cold that day? How many miles are on it? How's the maintenance been (specifically, spark plugs)? And then yea, I'd be inspecting that fuel pump cap: https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/symptoms-of-fuel-pump-o-ring-problem.41182/

No low oil sensor that would impact the start. Sounds more like a fuel delivery problem. Did you hear the pump run when you turned the key on? Might want to check fuel pressure as well. If my memory is correct, your fuel pump has a metal cap on it and sometimes the cap/oring fail. Search the USMB.

@Rampage, @idosubaru, @john in KY, @naru2 I have made the following the test, with a mystifying result: -I started the car on the 3 working cylinders: 1, 2 and 3. It starts immediately. -Harness for injector #4 was unplugged while the car was running. I attached an old injector, and IT WORKED on harness #4. I could see and feel that injector opening and closing, and the car is still running. I even attached a wire to the injector housing and touched the negative terminal of the battery and the car was still working. HOWEVER, if I disconnect the loose injector and place that harness back on injector #4, the car dies immediately. Speculations: The ECU has to be working fine, and sending the correct pulses/signals to all 4 injectors, since I managed to see it doing so even to a loose test injector held by hand. The ECU gets "confused" once the harness goes back to injector #4 for some reason that I cannot explain, does not like it and kills the car. The ECU does not like this injector #4 even though is a working / non leaking injector. The car is possesed by an unkown force that prefers running on 3 injectors attached to the block, and one "loose in the air". I gotta make some jokes here instead of abusing as this is such a strange situation. Awaiting your wise comments, inputs and guidance Dave

But but, The gen two is only 39 years old. lol

If you want help we need to know data and facts. Exactly what happens and a time line. 1. Are there any coolant leaks? Is the radiator fixed? 2. Is the coolant full in the radiator (not the overflow tank) 3. Did you BURP the cooling system? If you didn’t, that’s why it’s overheating. You you need to do that or it’ll keep overheating *if it’s still leaking no amount of burping matters. That’s why I need to know the answers to numbers 1-3. Youve given us random information that almost makes no sense - you said that trying to fix the broken radiator and hose didn’t work...then asked for help Replace the radiator seems the obvious answer. did you do that? we can’t help if we don’t know anything about the car? The thermostat won’t fix it, AC has absolutely nothing to do with the cooling system. Working AC preheats the air in front of the car and makes it more prone to oveheesting if you use the AC. But that’s only because the AC is preheating the outside air before it goes over the radiator. Otherwise the AC and engine cooling are two *totally different and unrelated systems* You’re sending that engine to the grave and it wont be fixable. You can’t overheat engines like that and particularly this engine. That’s the worst Subaru engine to run hot.

It’s only for like two seconds. Done it plenty of times. Passed to me from elders with decades of experience. Just sayin. We deal with more rusty tanks up here.

If you're interested I can look for my original clutched fan. I replaced it with an electric fan.