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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/21/20 in all areas

  1. If you can unplug that harness and then see if the short is gone. Nice.
    2 points
  2. The injectors have to be fired individually. Spraying fuel into another cylinder while one is at the correct time for ignition would cause massive unburned hydrocarbon emmisions. Unburned fuel would be pumped out the exhaust.
    1 point
  3. step 1 : to gain access to make splices, first I rolled back the boot to locate breaks then I tied a piece of dental floss (I'm a retired dentist ;-)) to one of the loose ends and pulled it back out, spliced enough wire to make it work and then pulled the extended piece back through to reconnect to the other end of the broken wire. step 2 : discard floss
    1 point
  4. just skimmed through this.. but imho - far too much effort for very little gain. An old/weak/dying battery is going to get replaced in my vehicles. Period. I don't have the time, energy, or money to waste on testing something that simply just needs replacing, and/or could cost me even more down the road by killing my alternator. I live out in the country - running to the parts store is not a couple minute thing here.. 30 mins one way to get to the nearest. I NEED my vehicle to be reliable and ready to go at a moments notice, not screwing around with chargers and wasting time/energy with testing that is only going to tell me what I already know - the battery needs replacing. To each their own, and if doing all this makes you happy, then by all means, feel free. But for the majority of us, it is neither frugal, nor expedient to bother with it. Batteries have a lifespan, and where you are located - geographically - will affect that lifespan. I will spend the $80-85 on a quality battery when I need to, and have the confidence that my vehicle wont leave me stranded somewhere.
    1 point
  5. To me, I will re-charge it and then from my experiments, based on the Fall Rate and Rise/Fall Ratio, with just a 10-second video I can objectively decide whether it should go. I understand other people would have different ways to make decision. Steve Jobs leased a car every six months he traded it in for a new one. People say time is money, my problem is that if I saved time, I can't use the saved hours to make money. This is a different subject: When I showed my friends my time saving and money saving youtube videos, they shrugged "time is money!" How do you respond if you were me? It is obvious if I have choice of either spending an hour saving $20 or spending an hour making $100, I would choose making $100-$20=$80. However since most people don't have a way to use that hour to make $100, then this "time is money!" is not valid to them. So I think my response should be: unless you can figure out a way to use your extra hours to make money, you should not abandon saving/being frugal.
    1 point
  6. As a shop owner that routinely replaces both alternators and batteries I can tell you there is absolutely a correlation between weak batteries and alternator failures. That is WHY every alternator comes with a BIG WARNING TAG indicating that it should only be installed along side a fully charged battery. The alternator does not work during cranking. Cranking is about 250 to 300 RPM at most. At this speed the alternator is not capable of any significant output. Old batteries make the alternator work harder and more often for longer periods. This can burn up the voltage regulators. GD
    1 point
  7. By not changing the battery when it is showing clear signs of failure, you risk damaging the alternator. It's job is NOT to charge a dead battery. It's job is to top off a good battery after the engine is running and to power the electrical requirements of the vehicle once it's running to prevent the electrical system from drawing the battery down further. When the battery is low, it is an endless pit for amperage - the alternator will overheat and this can damage it's voltage regulator, etc. Saving less than $100 on a battery may cost you a LOT more when it takes out your factory alternator - for which there are few good replacements other than Subaru OEM, sometimes Denso or Hitachi remans if you can source one, and places like DC Power. In any case you are going to spend at least $200, and if you want a quality unit - more like $600 for a replacement. Is it worth blowing an alternator to try to get another $25 out of an old used-up battery? Seems like economic suicide to me. GD
    1 point
  8. Thank you all for your kind words, which I really appreciate, more than I could ever tell. __________________________________________________ regarding the plastic fastener, I answered ~► here. __________________________________________________ Kind Regards.
    1 point
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